Vordere Sommerwand

A superb, enjoyable and sustained scramble on the north ridge of the Vordere Sommerwand in the Stubai Alps.

Alpine Climbing Difficult

Distance
9.6 km
Ascent
930 m
Descent
930 m
Low Point
1.7 km
High Point
2.7 km
Gradient
29˚
VIEW ON MAP
Vordere Sommerwand Map

Description

From Oberissalm follow a well signposted hiking path for around 1hr15minutes to arrive at the Franz-Senn Hutte. From the hut take the path signposted ‘Vordere Sommerwand’, follow it uphill and after 45 minutes you will reach a boulder field. The start of the scramble is now just up ahead of you, and there is a somewhat vague path crossing the boulders to the foot of the ridge, right where the boulders end and the ridge becomes solid. You will know you are in the right place when you see 3 bolts on the rock next to a flat area ideal for getting your climbing kit on.

The route is fully bolted, however they are not always easy to find. There are also occasional cairns or bits of tat to let you know you’re on the right track. If unsure, follow the most worn line, which is often right on the crest of the ridge. In general the whole route is fairly sustained, and confident scramblers won’t need a rope on most of it, however there are a few pokey moves and parts of the route can feel a little exposed. The crux comes at about the half way point on a slab.

Eventually the ridge gives way to a grassy area, with a clear view of the summit cross above. Thus follows the final section of scrambling, which is straightforward yet a little exposed, and the fantastic view from the top is well worth the effort.

To descend, briefly reverse your ascent route back down to the small grassy area and look out for a very easy to miss path leading off and down to the right. Although vague, the path is marked with red and white paint markers. Follow this path as it winds downhill parallel to the ridge, all the way back to the Franz-Senn Hutte, then from there retrace the route back down to Oberissalm.

Difficulty

Difficult

The beginning of truly technical terrain which might involve pitched climbing on rock and/or ice, exposed terrain and complex route finding in ascent and descent. Equivalent to AD, AD+

Medium Exposure

2 out of 4

The route features some exposed and/or difficult to protect sections.

Remoteness

3 out of 4

Little chance of being seen or helped in case of an accident.

Best time to visit

July, August, September

Equipment required

  • Quickdraws
  • Wires and Friends