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Mount Niblock and Mount Whyte

Banff National Park

Double Summits above Lake Agnes

Alpine Climbing Moderate

Distance
15 km
Ascent
1.4 km
Descent
1.4 km
Low Point
1.7 km
High Point
3 km
Gradient
23˚
Mount Niblock and Mount Whyte Map

Mount Whyte is one of the best viewpoints short of Mount Temple that one can experience in and around Lake Louise. It is a tricky scramble with a couple of rather exhilarating moves. Most people will include Mount Niblock in this trip because the peaks share a col, and just getting there is often the most frustrating part.

Description

The route begins in the Lake Louise car park. Due to the recent popularity and challenges finding a spot at this site, it is recommended to get to the lot prior to 7 a.m. If you arrive any later you risk having the use the shuttle service.

The trail follows the signs to Lake Agnes, about 2 kilometers above the Chateau Lake Louise. The hike is busy even early in the morning with many folks heading to the tea house. Once at the tea house, follow the signs for the Beehive, which lead to the opposite side of the lake. At this junction, keep following the lake shore. The trail will grow much fainter because people rarely go here. Keep walking along this route heading up the valley at the end of the lake. This section has plentiful wildflowers, bubbling brooks, and is a lovely escape from the madness of the tea house.

The trail often has cairns. Head up the huge scree and talus pile, the point of which abuts a band of rock. A short scramble gets you through this onto a ledge system. Head to the climber's left and around the second long band on vertical rock. Then zig back up this new ledge. Toward the top of this area the ledges become narrower and tigher, and you will zig and zag your way to climber's right side of the col. The col is wide and covered with shale. From here most folks go and tag the nearby Mount Niblock. It's a quick hour-long extension at most, and it is definitely worth it.

To get to Mount Whyte, carry on the ridge heading westward. The ridge narrows as you approach a rockband. Proceed to the climber's left of the rock band, walking under the wall where a weakness will allow you to move through the scree and talus up to the next band of rock. Steep climbing beside a vertical wall gets you to a ledge. This narrow ledge is one of the most challenging sections, and at points only your toes will be on the ledge. Gently sidestep your way into a broad bowl with loose but decent scrambling.

You can gain the ridge by continuing upward from here. On the ridge you can walk between spires, and you'll have a superb view of the area. Mount Temple is most prominent, along with Mount Victoria and Mount Lefroy. In the distance, Mount Stephen and the Presidents offer additional superb views.

Descend by the same route.

Difficulty

Moderate

May involve slightly more complex glacier hikes, easy but possibly long rock ridges and steep snow up to 45 degrees. Equivalent to PD, PD+

High Exposure

3 out of 4

Much of the route is difficult to protect and a fall could be disastrous at certain points.

Remoteness

2 out of 4

Away from help but easily accessed.

Best time to visit

between July and September

Guidebooks in this area