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Mt Ossa West Ridge

1-2 day trip to the final peak of the Tantalus Range

Alpine Climbing Easy

Distance
26 km
Ascent
2.5 km
Descent
2.5 km
Low Point
52 m
High Point
2.2 km
Gradient
22˚
Mt Ossa West Ridge Map

Mount Ossa’s long approach has led to it being a fairly under appreciated scramble. But the superb rock quality, terrific views, and good scrambling-to-hike ratio should make it a far more popular route.

Description

The trail from the Squamish Valley is fairly popular as it abuts Crooked Falls. The route follows the same until the falls then makes its way upwards.

• The first 8km trail is steep, then evens out. • About 8km in, heading downhill a section of the trail has been covered by tree fall, and makes for tricky route-finding for about 100m. • A glacial stream that must be crossed. Neoprene booties would be a great addition. • The trail steepens before emerging into the glacial plain beneath Ossa-Pelion. Most groups camp here, though the cool winds that roll off the glacier can make it nicer to hike higher into the adjacent meadows. • The trail heads up to the hill, southwards up to a trio of lakes, and then up to a Talus bowl. • Follow ridge, look for cairns • First steep section. Centre line up solid rock, moving between shelfes. Aim for ramp 2/3 of the way up. Break left on the ramp, taking the talus slope to the firt summit • Follow the ramp to the next steep section • Keep the right side to find the notch. It won’t be visible until you are almost on top of it. It is about 15m to the right of the high point. • Descend the notch. The hardest move is at the bottom. You could rappel this section, but you would need to create your own anchor. There are several horns that a 240cm sling might fit around. • On the left side of the notch is a very exposed step to a ramp of 3rd class scrambling. There are few good options, so chose your move carefully.
• Summit

Most groups do this route over two days. It is fairly long, and it is good to have the extra time in case of route finding challenges

Difficulty

Easy

The ascent involves simple glacier hiking and/or short, straightforward rock scrambles. Equivalent to Alpine F, F+

High Exposure

3 out of 4

Much of the route is difficult to protect and a fall could be disastrous at certain points.

Remoteness

4 out of 4

In the high mountains or remote conditions, all individuals must be completely autonomous in every situation.

Best time to visit

between July and September

Guidebooks in this area