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Snøhettatraversen

Alpine traverse over the highest mountain in Dovrefjell

Alpine Climbing Difficult

Distance
14 km
Ascent
1 km
Descent
1 km
Low Point
1.5 km
High Point
2.3 km
Gradient
17˚
Snøhettatraversen Map

This is the most famous traverse in Dovrefjell, offering an alpine ridge with the green lake of Larstjønnin at one side and the glacier of "Gryta" at the other.

Description

From Snøheim, follow the red t-marked trail towards Snøhetta. It is a relatively easy hike to the top of the main summit. Here you will meet a big tower and if you are lucky with the weather, a great view!

From the summit continue to the west ascending Midttoppen, following the highest point of the ridge. From here head south west to the col before Hettpiggen. Here you need to kit up because now starts the climbing.

Hettpiggen is ascended by the west side of the ridge, with 2-3 pitches at grade 2/3. The last section to the summit is easy scrambling. From the summit, down climb a little section before you meet a characteristic slab. Here you will see an anchor telling that you are on the right spot. From the slab make an abseil, approximately 25 meters, down to the col before Vesttoppen. From the col there's 2-3 more pitches - the first one at grade 4+ - to the summit, ascended by the west side of the ridge.

The climbing routes, both to Hettpiggen and Vesttoppen, doesn't follow a particular characteristic or visible line. Hence, this traverse involves the typical path-finding of alpine adventures. Despite this you will most likely see some old anchors long the way, confirming that you are on the route. Don't trust the anchors though, some of them are old!

From Vesttoppen, make the descent comfortably by following the red t-marked trail back to Snøheim.

Dovrefjell is the northernmost of all the mountain ranges in Norway with peaks above 2000 m.a.s.l. As a consequence you can risk encountering winter-y conditions even in the summer, and weather changes fast. Also the season is short, and there is often snow on the summits in September. Take this into consideration when planning this traverse.

Difficulty

Difficult

The beginning of truly technical terrain which might involve pitched climbing on rock and/or ice, exposed terrain and complex route finding in ascent and descent. Equivalent to AD, AD+

High Exposure

3 out of 4

Much of the route is difficult to protect and a fall could be disastrous at certain points.

Remoteness

3 out of 4

Little chance of being seen or helped in case of an accident.

Best time to visit

between June and September

Equipment required

  • Quickdraws
  • Wires and Friends

Guidebooks in this area