Bernina Haute Route. Marco e Rosa Hut to Marinelli Hut.

Optional ascent of Piz Bernina, 4048m, returning to the hut, then through a col and a descent to the Marinelli Hut.

Also in Sondrio, Italy

Ski Touring Difficult

Distance
11 km
Ascent
812 m
Descent
1.6 km
Duration
4-5 hrs
Low Point
2.8 km
High Point
4 km
Gradient
41˚
VIEW ON MAP
Bernina Haute Route. Marco e Rosa Hut to Marinelli Hut. Map

Description

Depending on fitness, conditions and motivation there is the obvious 4000m peak above you, Piz Bernina, which is ripe for picking. Alternative peaks include Piz Argient or the Bellavista if you haven’t been up it the day before. The way up Piz Bernina is self evident, above the hut. You will be able to skin most of the way, but will definitely leave skis at some point and switch to crampons and axe. You can traverse the foresummit (La Spedia, 4020m) or contour below it to the R in ascent to arrive at the summit at 4048m. The mountaineering is slightly delicate and exposed, but not unduly technical. It is a brilliant peak, famed for its photogenic snow crest on the opposite side of the peak, the Biancograt. Admire views of the rest of the range, the Ortler and and Swiss giants far to the W. This is the most easterly of the 4000m peaks in the Alps. Retrace your steps to the skis and return to the Marco e Rosa for a cappuccino and to pick up any hut extras. Next you reverse your tracks of yesterday under Bellavista, and continue round to the E, aiming for the obvious col, the Fourcla Bellavista at 3673m. From here it is almost entirely downhill to the hut. The wide S facing glacial slopes lead down to a small glacial col, next to the Pansera Bivouac, at about 3500m. You are avoiding a zone of crevasses to your R here. Next you head SW and W, heading close to the toe of a buttress that comes down to the S of Piz Argient, under point 3213m. From here you contour W at about 3100m, passing through the Passo Marinelli Orientale, then taking slightly steeper ground to the W and SW, down to flatter area, before a final climb to the Marinelli Hut at 2813m.

Difficulty

Difficult

Serious gradient of 30-38 degrees where a real risk of slipping exists.

Medium Exposure (E2)

2 out of 4

As well as the slope itself, there are some obstacles (such as rock outcrops) which could aggravate injury.

Remoteness

2 out of 4

Away from help but easily accessed.

Best time to visit

March, April, May

Features

  • Alpine
  • Ski Mountaineering

Equipment required

  • Rope
  • Skins
  • Ice axe
  • Crampons
  • Glacier kit

Similar routes nearby

Guidebooks in this area