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Little Bear Peak

One of the most technical and coveted 14er summits.

Hiking Extreme

Distance
4.6 km
Ascent
715 m
Descent
715 m
Duration
2-3 hrs
Low Point
3.6 km
High Point
4.3 km
Gradient
35˚
Little Bear Peak Map

Note: this route warrants a "Difficult" Mountaineering difficulty rating.

Description

Thanks to a demanding Class 4 climb with extreme rockfall danger, Little Bear Peak is renowned as one of the most technical 14er summits in Colorado. In addition to the technicality, it's an objectively beautiful summit that provides a satisfying objective for climbers.

The hike begins by following the rough Lake Como/Blanca Peak 4x4 road, until eventually splitting off onto a singletrack trail.

After climbing through some talus and good rock, you'll approach the southwest face, where the climbing gets dramatically more difficult. Once you pass 13,300 feet, 14ers.com directs you to "locate the 'Hourglass' gully." You'll then climb this technical gully, following a fixed rope or two to reach the upper anchors.

The rest of the route to the summit "is loose and dangerous, and there's no obvious line," according to 14ers.com. Proceed with caution and carefully pick your line to the summit.

Due to the dramatic amount of loose rock on this climb, helmets are highly recommended.

Once on top of Little Bear Peak, it is also possible to traverse to nearby Blanca Peak, but this exposed, rocky ridgeline requires 2-5 hours of class 4 climbing and traversing (if you forgo ropes and protection). While coveted by Colorado climbers, this traverse is not mapped as a part of this adventure.

Sources: https://www.summitpost.org/little-bear-peak/150456 https://www.14ers.com/route.php?route=litt6&peak=Blanca%2C+Ellingwood+and+Little+Bear

Difficulty

Extreme

Scrambling up mountains and along technical trails with moderate fall exposure. Handholds are necessary to navigate the trail in its entirety, although they are not necessary at all times. Some obstacles can be very large and difficult to navigate, and the grades can often be near-vertical. The challenge of the trail and the steepness of the grade results in very strenuous hiking. Hikes of this difficulty blur the lines between "hiking" and "climbing".

Extreme Exposure

4 out of 4

Some trail sections are extremely exposed where falling will almost certainly result in serious injury or death.

Remoteness

4 out of 4

In the high mountains or remote conditions, all individuals must be completely autonomous in every situation.

Best time to visit

between July and September

Features

  • Alpine
  • Summit Hike

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