Guidebook
Expedition to Tajikistan 2022
Exploratory mountaineering in the Rushan Range of the Pamir Mountains, Tajikistan.
Description
In August 2022 Alpine Club members Alexander Hale, Christopher Lewis, Alexander Metcalfe and Sarah Wysling went on an exploratory mountaineering expedition to Zarushkul Lake in the Rushan Range of the Pamir Mountains, Tajikistan. The expedition aimed to climb new lines and achieve first summits in alpine style on peaks between 5000 and 5800m.
Tajikistan was in the midst of its hottest summer on record; when they arrived temperatures were between 10 degrees in the daytime and 2 degrees overnight at 4500m. This cooled throughout their time there, but meant there was a high risk of rock fall and collapsing ice features.
Despite the unfavourable temperatures, the expedition made a successful first ascent of Redstart Peak (Pk 5248) via the North Ridge (PD+). An attempt was made on Pk 5783 by the West Ridge (D-), but the team turned round at a high point of 5652m due to concerns about rockfall and possibly unstable seracs on the final push.