Guidebook

Expedition to Tajikistan 2022

Exploratory mountaineering in the Rushan Range of the Pamir Mountains, Tajikistan.

Alex Metcalfe

Description

In August 2022 Alpine Club members Alexander Hale, Christopher Lewis, Alexander Metcalfe and Sarah Wysling went on an exploratory mountaineering expedition to Zarushkul Lake in the Rushan Range of the Pamir Mountains, Tajikistan. The expedition aimed to climb new lines and achieve first summits in alpine style on peaks between 5000 and 5800m.

Tajikistan was in the midst of its hottest summer on record; when they arrived temperatures were between 10 degrees in the daytime and 2 degrees overnight at 4500m. This cooled throughout their time there, but meant there was a high risk of rock fall and collapsing ice features.

Despite the unfavourable temperatures, the expedition made a successful first ascent of Redstart Peak (Pk 5248) via the North Ridge (PD+). An attempt was made on Pk 5783 by the West Ridge (D-), but the team turned round at a high point of 5652m due to concerns about rockfall and possibly unstable seracs on the final push.

Bachor to BC - Day 1

Bachor to BC - Day 1

3 - 4 hrs
13.3 km
428 m
139 m
Day 1 of 3 of the trek into base camp from Bachor.
Difficult
Private
Bachor to BC - Day 2

Bachor to BC - Day 2

3 - 4 hrs
12.8 km
764 m
45 m
Day 2 of 3 of the trek into base camp from Bachor.
Difficult
Private
Bachor to BC - Day 3

Bachor to BC - Day 3

1 - 2 hrs
4.1 km
205 m
17 m
Day 3 of 3 of the trek into base camp from Bachor.
Difficult
Private
Hauling From BC to ABC

Hauling From BC to ABC

0 - 1 hrs
4.4 km
39 m
156 m
Three days of hauling gear from basecamp to advanced basecamp
Difficult
Private
Exploring the Zaroshkul Glacier

Exploring the Zaroshkul Glacier

1 - 2 hrs
5.4 km
314 m
41 m
Exploratory and acclimatisation recce up the Zaroshkul Glacier.
Moderate
Private
North Ridge of Пик Горихвостка(Pk 5248)

North Ridge of Пик Горихвостка(Pk 5248)

0.9 km
219 m
Climbing the North Ridge of Redstart Peak
Difficult
Private
West Ridge of Pk 5783

West Ridge of Pk 5783

2.9 km
814 m
Alex Hale & Chris Lewis' summit attempt on Pk 5783.
Severe
Private
BC to Bachor - Day 1

BC to Bachor - Day 1

2 - 3 hrs
12.1 km
40 m
837 m
Day one of two of the walk out from base camp to Bachor.
Moderate
Private
BC to Bachor - Day 2

BC to Bachor - Day 2

3 - 4 hrs
17.0 km
161 m
579 m
Day two of two of the walk out from base camp to Bachor
Moderate
Private