Guidebook

Big Peaks, Big Challenges: Chamonix's tougher 4000ers

All 82 Alpine 4000ers are tough in some respect - these are tough in several respects, and all the better for it.

Description

Ironically, Chamonix's most famous 4000 metre peak - Mont Blanc - is actually one of the easiest 4000ers to climb provided you're fit and acclimatised. There are tough routes on the mountain but the 3 classic ways to its summit are all relatively straightforward, as you'll learn when you check out our guidebook to the Alps' highest mountain -

https://fatmap.com/guidebooks/220/mont-blanc's-classic-routes/@45.8747899,6.6291663,29130.8101920,-90,0,1151.9027578,normal

The routes described in this guidebook are lower than Mont Blanc, but significantly more challenging. On every peak described here you'll encounter technical difficulty and need to be accomplished in the "dark art" of moving quickly through all types of alpine terrain. You'll also need to be experienced in judging conditions, route finding and traveling through complex glaciated terrain. Needless to say, the rewards that await if you climb these summits are huge, but there are risks associated with these mountains too, so only tackle them when you've served a thorough alpine apprenticeship.

If you want to know how to get started on that apprenticeship, we've got you covered. Below you'll find a guidebook to some "easy" (nothing alpine is truly easy!) Chamonix routes, and 5 tougher - but still attainable - routes on icy north faces.

https://fatmap.com/guidebooks/242/chamonix's-classic-easier-mountaineering-routes

https://fatmap.com/guidebooks/4182/chamonix's-5-easiest-north-faces/@45.8655481,6.8881753,3717.5320084,-76.5873563,1.9644236,3558.2496524,normal

Deant du Geant, 4013m
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Deant du Geant, 4013m

Skyway Monte Bianco
5.0 km
725 m
A popular and exposed route to a stunning granite spire, with epic views.
Difficult
Private
Couvercle Hut Approach
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Couvercle Hut Approach

Chamonix
6.6 km
969 m
A journey up the Vallée Blanche then ladders up to a remote hut in a wild and beautiful place
Easy
Private
Aiguille Verte, 4122m. Whymper Couloir
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Aiguille Verte, 4122m. Whymper Couloir

Chamonix
7.1 km
1,425 m
One of the toughest classic 4000m peaks which enjoys some of the finest views in the range.
Difficult
Private
Mont Maudit, Frontier/Kuffner Ridge.
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Mont Maudit, Frontier/Kuffner Ridge.

Chamonix
5.7 km
1,249 m
A memorable technical mountaineering route up one of the finest ridges of its standard in the Alps, the Frontier Ridge.
Severe
Private
Approach to Durier Hut
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Approach to Durier Hut

Saint-Gervais-les-Bains
9.5 km
2,353 m
A very long and remote day that can be halved by staying in the Plan Glacier Hut
Moderate
Private
Royal Traverse- Aiguille du Bionnassay, Dôme du Goûter and Mont Blanc
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Royal Traverse- Aiguille du Bionnassay, Dôme du Goûter and Mont Blanc

Chamonix
13.2 km
2,089 m
The most amazing traverse of several 4000m peaks including the iconic Aiguille du Bionnassay and Mont Blanc
Difficult
Private
Les Droites, 4000m, S Ridge of E Summit
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Les Droites, 4000m, S Ridge of E Summit

Chamonix
7.2 km
1,363 m
A remote mountain, famed by the routes on its N Face, is a challenging climb from any side.
Difficult
Private
The Boccalatte Hut.
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

The Boccalatte Hut.

Chamonix
2 - 3 hrs
4.0 km
1,210 m
0 m
An exceptional, adventurous hike featuring some sections of easy via ferrata and exposed terrain.
Extreme
Private
Grandes Jorasses, SW Flank
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Grandes Jorasses, SW Flank

Chamonix
5.1 km
1,372 m
An unforgettable journey through complex terrain for the 4000m peak connoisseur
Difficult
Private