Big Peaks, Big Challenges: Chamonix's tougher 4000ers

All 82 Alpine 4000ers are tough in some respect - these are tough in several respects, and all the better for it.

Charlie Boscoe

Images

Dent du Geant.jpg
Dent du Geant

by Enrico Pighett

Licence Free

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Approach to Dent du Geant

by Enrico Pighett

Licence Free

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Traversing between the 2 summits

by Charlie Boscoe

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Descending from the summit

by Charlie Boscoe

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On the Burgener slabs

by Charlie Boscoe

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View from the Couvercle at dawn

by Jerome Bon

Licence Free

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Couvercle Old Hut

by sebastien gay

Licence Free

Couvercle Descent below the ladders in bad weather.jpg
Couvercle view of old and new huts with Mont Blanc.jpg
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Typically aesthetic climbing midway along the route.

by Peter Riley

Licence Free

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The famous traverse around the Pointe de l'Androsace.

by Peter Riley

Licence Free

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Sunrise on the route

by Peter Riley

Licence Free

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Looking back to the Aiguille du Midi from the summit of Mont Maudit

by Peter Riley

Licence Free

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Almost on the summit

by Peter Riley

Licence Free

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Looking up at the final section of the route to Mont Maudit.

by Peter Riley

Licence Free

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Enjoying the stunning location of the Fourche hut

by Peter Riley

Licence Free

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Plan Glacier Hut

by Nicolas Vigier

Licence Free

Steep mixed ground below the Durier Hut.jpg
View outside the Durier Hut.jpg
View outside the Durier Hut

by Florence.S

Licence Free

View of the steep slopes to the Durier, from the Plan Glacier Hut.jpg
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The view across to the Grandes Jorasses from the Couvercle Hut

by Charlie Boscoe

Creative Commons: Attribution
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Descending in frigid conditions.

by Charlie Boscoe

Creative Commons: Attribution
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Looking across to the Grandes Jorasses from midway up the route.

by Charlie Boscoe

Creative Commons: Attribution
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Pulling on the ropes just below the hut.

by Charlie Boscoe

Creative Commons: Attribution
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Grandes Jorasses in the mirror

by SNappa2006

Licence Free

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Sunrise over Mont Blanc as seen from the route.

by Peter Riley

Creative Commons: No Derivatives
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Sunrise over the Glacier des Grandes Jorasses.

by Peter Riley.

Licence Free

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The summit!

by Peter Riley.

Creative Commons: No Derivatives

Description

Ironically, Chamonix's most famous 4000 metre peak - Mont Blanc - is actually one of the easiest 4000ers to climb provided you're fit and acclimatised. There are tough routes on the mountain but the 3 classic ways to its summit are all relatively straightforward, as you'll learn when you check out our guidebook to the Alps' highest mountain -

https://fatmap.com/guidebooks/220/mont-blanc's-classic-routes/@45.8747899,6.6291663,29130.8101920,-90,0,1151.9027578,normal

The routes described in this guidebook are lower than Mont Blanc, but significantly more challenging. On every peak described here you'll encounter technical difficulty and need to be accomplished in the "dark art" of moving quickly through all types of alpine terrain. You'll also need to be experienced in judging conditions, route finding and traveling through complex glaciated terrain. Needless to say, the rewards that await if you climb these summits are huge, but there are risks associated with these mountains too, so only tackle them when you've served a thorough alpine apprenticeship.

If you want to know how to get started on that apprenticeship, we've got you covered. Below you'll find a guidebook to some "easy" (nothing alpine is truly easy!) Chamonix routes, and 5 tougher - but still attainable - routes on icy north faces.

https://fatmap.com/guidebooks/242/chamonix's-classic-easier-mountaineering-routes

https://fatmap.com/guidebooks/4182/chamonix's-5-easiest-north-faces/@45.8655481,6.8881753,3717.5320084,-76.5873563,1.9644236,3558.2496524,normal

Adventures

Couvercle Hut Approach

A journey up the Vallée Blanche then ladders up to a remote hut in a wild and beautiful place

The Boccalatte Hut.

An exceptional, adventurous hike featuring some sections of easy via ferrata and exposed terrain.