The Summit of New Zealand : Climb Aoraki/Mount Cook

The 2 classic routes to the highest mountain in the "Land of the Long White Cloud" and 2 acclimatisation peaks to get you prepared!

Charlie Boscoe


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Mt Cook

by Calum Muskett

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Sunrise on Cook

by Calum Muskett

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Plateau Hut

by Calum Muskett

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Mt Dixon

by Calum Muskett



Mount Cook holds a special place in the hearts of New Zealanders - it is believed to have been first sighted by Maori settlers in the 14th Century, and then "re-discovered" by members of Abel Tasman's crew after his first Pacific voyage.

Maori legend states that Aoraki was a boy who was sailing around Mother Earth with his 3 brothers when their canoe ran aground and tilted. The brothers climbed to the top of their canoe but a southerly wind froze them in place, creating the South Island of New Zealand from their canoe and the Southern Alps from the brothers themselves.

In more recent times Aoraki/Mount Cook has become the focal point of New Zealand alpine climbing. Its first confirmed ascent was in 1894 and even today it remains a serious challenge due to its technical difficulty, objective hazards and the sheer length of the routes up it. Even by its "normal" route - the Linda Glacier - it is a major undertaking and a coveted prize for alpinists of all levels.

This guidebook contains the Linda Glacier route, 2 acclimatisation peaks from the Plateau Hut (which is the starting point for the Linda Glacier route and is accessed by helicopter from Mount Cook village) and perhaps the most sought after alpine route in New Zealand - the truly epic Aoraki/Mount Cook Grand Traverse.