Guidebook

Mount Tasman and More: Westland Alpine Climbs

A warmup route and then an 8 day adventure through the huge glaciers and onto the peaks which tower above the villages of Franz Josef and Fox Glacier.

Description

Just to the north of the (rightly) famous Aoraki/Mount Cook lies Mount Tasman and a series of huge, sweeping glaciers which drain down into the rivers of New Zealand's Westland region and then on to the Tasman Sea. This guidebook will take you across these glaciers and onto 6 incredible summits, including Tasman itself. En route you'll see every type of mountain landscape and stay in 5 stunning mountain huts.

Fittingly, Tasman is the hardest of the peaks described here but Westland's notoriously wild climate and the objective hazards which characterise New Zealand alpinism make every day a serious undertaking. We've included here the classic route on Mount Sefton to serve as a warmup (only in New Zealand would this be considered a warmup (!) - it's a pretty major undertaking), and then you're on to an 8 day mega-adventure around Mount Tasman.

The 8 day trip starts and ends at high mountain huts which can be accessed on foot (if you are truly sadistic and enjoy multi day jungle bashing expeditions) but are almost always reached by helicopter from either Franz Josef or Fox Glacier. Flights are easily arranged and surprisingly reasonably priced.

If you complete this trip you'll have earned a few calories at one of the excellent restaurants on the West coast and will likely have whet your appetite for more New Zealand alpinism. If that's the case, check out our guidebooks to the 2 most famous peaks in the country, Aoraki/Mount Cook and Mount Aspiring.

https://fatmap.com/guidebooks/12520/the-summit-of-new-zealand-:-climb-aorakimount-cook/@-43.6530594,169.8886293,102384.3586293,-90,0,765.8109483,normal

https://fatmap.com/guidebooks/12522/new-zealand's-matterhorn-:-classic-routes-on-mt-aspiring

Almer hut to Centennial hut
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Almer hut to Centennial hut

Mount Cook
5.0 km
677 m
A wild journey into the Southern Alps
Easy
Private
Minarets
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Minarets

Mount Cook
7.4 km
897 m
A remote summit in the heart of the Southern Alps
Moderate
Private
Centennial to Pioneer hut
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Centennial to Pioneer hut

Mount Cook
6.0 km
335 m
A gorgeous high glacier traverse
Easy
Private
Glacier Peak
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Glacier Peak

Mount Cook
5.4 km
680 m
A rightly popular New Zealand 3,000er
Moderate
Private
Lendenfeld Peak
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Lendenfeld Peak

Mount Cook
8.5 km
859 m
A remote summit with stunning views
Moderate
Private
North Shoulder of Mt Tasman
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

North Shoulder of Mt Tasman

Mount Cook
10.8 km
1,392 m
A remote and exposed ridge traverse to a perfect summit
Difficult
Private
Pioneer to Chancellor hut
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Pioneer to Chancellor hut

Mount Cook
7.6 km
6 m
A spectacular glacier journey
Easy
Private
Chancellor Dome
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Chancellor Dome

Mount Cook
4.9 km
765 m
A classic itinerary with views across Westland National Park
Easy
Private
Mt Sefton West Ridge
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Mt Sefton West Ridge

Mount Cook
14.8 km
2,832 m
A stunning and remote summit on the West Coast
Difficult
Private
Copland Valley Track
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Copland Valley Track

1 day +
46.8 km
1,640 m
1,640 m
Explore the south island’s wild west coast with this 2 day out-and-back adventure.
Difficult
Private