The Best Alpine Route in Europe? Climb the Piz Bernina

Conquer the most easterly Alpine 4000er via one of the best mid-grade alpine routes in the World.

Charlie Boscoe

Images

Panoramic view from the hut.jpg
Panoramic view from the hut

by Stefanos Nikologianis

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Glacial views on the walk in.jpg
Glacial views on the walk in

by Franco Pecchio

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Autumn colours in the approach valley.jpg
Autumn colours in the approach valley

by Matteo Leoni

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Glacial silt in the Roseg River.jpg
Glacial silt in the Roseg River

by Sandy Kirchlechner

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Biancograt at dawn.JPG
Biancograt at dawn from the summit of Piz Morteratsch Private collection

by Jon Morgan

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Looking E from near the summit.JPG
Looking E from near the summit Private collection

by Jon Morgan

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Ben Tibbetts taking dawn shots of the Biancograt from the summit of Piz Morteratsch.JPG
Ben Tibbetts taking dawn shots of the Biancograt from the summit of Piz Morteratsch Private collection

by Jon Morgan

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Panorama from the summit of Piz Morteratsch.JPG
Panorama from the summit of Piz Morteratsch Private collection

by Jon Morgan

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Biancograt at dawn.JPG
Biancograt at dawn Private collection

by Jon Morgan

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Classic snow climbing.JPG
Classic snow climbing Private collection

by Jon Morgan

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Milky distant views from the ridge.JPG
Milky distant views from the ridge Private collection

by Jon Morgan

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Final steep section towards the summit.JPG
Final steep section towards the summit Private collection

by Jon Morgan

Ridge down to the hut.JPG
Ridge down to the hut Private collection

by Jon Morgan

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Marco e Rosa Hut.JPG
Marco e Rosa Hut Private collection

by Jon Morgan

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Marco e Rosa Hut.JPG
Marco e Rosa Hut Personal collection

by Jon Morgan

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Complicated glacial travel.JPG
Complicated glacial travel Personal collection

by Jon Morgan

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Piz Spinas from Fuorcla Bellavista.JPG
Piz Spinas from Fuorcla Bellavista Personal collection

by Jon Morgan

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Classic snow crests on Piz Palü.JPG
Classic snow crests on Piz Palü Personal collection

by Jon Morgan

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The entire route in profile, from R to L, viewed from Diavolezza.JPG
The entire route in profile, from R to L, viewed from Diavolezza Personal collection

by Jon Morgan

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Description

Climbing the Piz Bernina by any route is a major, high-mountain adventure but the absolutely classic way to ascend the peak is via the Biancograt ridge. This guidebook will show you how to climb the route as well as approach the relevant hut, climb a gorgeous acclimatisation peak and descend back to civilisation via another outrageously beautiful ridge traverse. It's safe to say that if you do the 4 days described here, you'll have completed one of the finest multi-day alpine adventures in Europe.

The Biancograt itself is the focus point of this trip but every day on it is special in its own way. Even approaching the Tschierva Hut is a fun trip and there are 3 options of how to do it! Our suggested acclimatisation peak - Piz Morteratsch - is gorgeous and affords perfect views of the Biancograt, and then the main event itself is worth all the hype it receives. It is never "hard" but it's exposed in places and breathtakingly aesthetic. The final day of the trip is over the Piz Palü and, once again, what the route lacks in pure difficulty it more than compensates for with exposure. Once you're over that peak, all's that left is an easy walk back to a cable car, a triumphant ride down and a celebration in the charming Swiss resort town of Pontresina.

Adventures

Piz Morteratsch

A classic snowy peak, never too difficult, with amazing views

Piz Bernina, Biancograt

A very famous and beautiful route, up the snaking snowy ridge to the summit of the most easterly of the 4000m peaks