Guidebook

The Best Alpine Route in Europe? Climb the Piz Bernina

Conquer the most easterly Alpine 4000er via one of the best mid-grade alpine routes in the World.

Description

Climbing the Piz Bernina by any route is a major, high-mountain adventure but the absolutely classic way to ascend the peak is via the Biancograt ridge. This guidebook will show you how to climb the route as well as approach the relevant hut, climb a gorgeous acclimatisation peak and descend back to civilisation via another outrageously beautiful ridge traverse. It's safe to say that if you do the 4 days described here, you'll have completed one of the finest multi-day alpine adventures in Europe.

The Biancograt itself is the focus point of this trip but every day on it is special in its own way. Even approaching the Tschierva Hut is a fun trip and there are 3 options of how to do it! Our suggested acclimatisation peak - Piz Morteratsch - is gorgeous and affords perfect views of the Biancograt, and then the main event itself is worth all the hype it receives. It is never "hard" but it's exposed in places and breathtakingly aesthetic. The final day of the trip is over the Piz Palü and, once again, what the route lacks in pure difficulty it more than compensates for with exposure. Once you're over that peak, all's that left is an easy walk back to a cable car, a triumphant ride down and a celebration in the charming Swiss resort town of Pontresina.

Approach to Tschierva Hut
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Approach to Tschierva Hut

3 - 4 hrs
11.9 km
829 m
15 m
A steady walk in which can be MTB assisted, or via a horse drawn cart!
Difficult
Private
Piz Morteratsch
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Piz Morteratsch

6.2 km
1,150 m
A classic snowy peak, never too difficult, with amazing views
Moderate
Private
Piz Bernina, Biancograt
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Piz Bernina, Biancograt

5.5 km
1,472 m
A very famous and beautiful route, up the snaking snowy ridge to the summit of the most easterly of the 4000m peaks
Difficult
Private
Piz Palü traverse from W to E
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Piz Palü traverse from W to E

10.1 km
658 m
A classic high alpine snowy ridge, from the Marco e Rosa Hut to Diavolezza
Moderate
Private