Classic Mid-Grade Traverses on the Alpine 4000ers

Going up and down a famous 4000er is great - going over the top of it and then climbing another is even better!

Charlie Boscoe

Images

View of the Allalinhorn on the way to the hut.jpg
Hut visible on the ridge.jpg
Hut visible on the ridge

by martin_vmorris

Licence Free

Flat topped Alphubel in the background.jpg
Flat topped Alphubel in the background

by martin_vmorris

Licence Free

Hüttenweg ladders.jpg
The whole route shown, superimposed on the Dom behind.jpg
The route at dawn.jpg
The Route at dawn

by Franco Pecchio

Licence Free

Near the summit of the Nadelhorn.jpg
Near the summit of the Nadelhorn

by Franco Pecchio

Licence Free

Lenzspitze NNE face looking nearly vertical.jpg
View from above the hut in the morning.jpg
View from above the hut in the morning

by Franco Pecchio

Licence Free

The final summits and the descent.jpg
The traverse of the Nadelgrat, from the Bordier Hut to the Mischabel Hut is a great journey and very enjoyable outing at the AD grade. The rock is not always that good, but this is more than made up for by the ambiance, the journey and the beauty of the surroundings. Whilst it is possible to do this as an out and back trip from either hut, the traverse from one hut to another is particularly fine, as described, also leaving the shortest descent from the Nadelhorn to the nearer hut. As marked here the route to the Dirruhorn is taking the Selle couloir, just to the N of the peak, which is only to be recommended in good snowy conditions. When drier or later in the season it may be better to take an alternative route to the Galenjoch, and traverse the ridge from there. This would involve recrossing the glacier below the hut, as per approach, then following a path with reflectors and cables to the Galenjoch. If you are taking this route it may be worth sussing out some of this section the day before on the way to the hut. Taking this variation you avoid the Ried Glacier upper section altogether, and traverse the Chli Dirruhorn as part of the journey, but overall there is more height gain. Thirdly another option is to continue up the glacier and take the steep snow slope direct to the Dirrujoch, hence doing this peak as an out and back. With any of these three options, from the summit of the Dirruhorn you descend to the Dirrujoch on poor rock, safer if frozen with snow and ice, as early as possible, as it faces S. From here it is a classic mixed ridge to the summit of the Hohbärghorn. There is a loose summit block that can be avoided on the L in good conditions. Go initially NE, then ESE on a snowy ridge, losing 80m to the lowest point of the ridge. Then climb predominantly rock, over or round some towers, to the summit of the Stecknadelhorn. Rocks from there take you down to a flat snowy section, which you follow to a pinnacle, over it, then most people traverse L to the NE Ridge for the final section to the summit. Descent from the Nadelhorn is via the normal route to the Mischabel Hut, and is easier than your route so far.

by Franco Pecchio

Licence Free

Heading up the Ried glacier, with Nadelgrat in the morning sun.jpg
Morning sun on the route.jpg
Morning Sun on the route

by Franco Pecchio

Licence Free

Heading down the NE Ridge of the Nadelhorn.jpg
Heading down the NE Ridge of the Nadelhorn.

by Franco Pecchio

Licence Free

View back from the main summit along the traverse.jpg
View back from the main summit along the traverse.jpg
Rocky step on the ridge.jpg
Rocky step on the ridge

by martin_vmorris

Licence Free

Breithorn Traverse viewed from Trockener Steg.jpg
Approach from the Klein Matterhorn.jpg
Approach from the Klein Matterhorn

by Jim Kelly

Licence Free

Mellow angled glacier.jpg
Mellow angled glacier

by obitran55

Licence Free

Description

All alpine climbs are adventures and you will never get to the end of a day on a 4000er and feel that everything went as you'd expected. Huge glaciers, variable rock and changing weather make any trip into the high alpine environment an adventurous experience, but nothing feels as committing and exciting as traversing a peak. Never is the old adage that, "the summit is halfway", more true than on a major alpine traverse.

In here you'll find some classic alpine journeys, some taking to you "only" one 4000er, others sending you over multiple peaks. None of the routes are technically hard but all are serious and wild. You'll need to be fit, acclimatised and experienced to tackle any of these, and you'll also need conditions and weather to be working in your favour as well.

Having completed these routes you'll be fit and ready for a bigger challenge, and there's no longer challenge in the Alps than the Royal Traverse of Mont Blanc -

https://fatmap.com/guidebooks/211/the-royal-traverse-of-mont-blanc-41-epic-kilometres

With that in the bag, you really are ready for anything, and you won't struggle to find suitable challenges to push you even further in the Alps!

Adventures

Nadelgrat Traverse

A classic 4000m voyage ticking off 4 summits in day, each one higher than the previous