Guidebook

High, Long and Serious : Traverse 5 Tough Alpine 4000ers

The hardest traverses on the biggest and wildest peaks - this is about as serious as it gets in the Alps.

Description

Climbing an alpine 4000er is always a serious business thanks to altitude, technical difficulty, glacial travel and changeable conditions. There are 82 4000ers and if you've only climbed 1 then you deserve a pat on the back but if you tick some or all of the routes in the guidebook then you deserve a round of applause! These are meaty routes by any standard.

Some of the routes in here require huge approaches before you even reach a glacier and others, such as the Grand Jorasses traverse, also involve a tough descent too. Suffice to say that in addition to climbing these routes, simply getting to and from them represents a major challenge.

If this all sounds a little bit beyond you then here's our suggestions for some slightly easier 4000er traversing options -

https://fatmap.com/guidebooks/14523/classic-mid-grade-traverses-on-the-alpine-4000ers/@47.2370635,11.2575218,57079.0411781,-90,0,821.6976053,normal

So if you've served your alpine apprenticeship and are ready to tackle some of the toughest challenges the Alps have to offer, here is your readymade ticklist!

Approach to Dom Hut
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Approach to Dom Hut

The Mischabel Range
3 - 4 hrs
5.4 km
1,528 m
0 m
A bruiser of a hut approach, but in a beautiful environment.
Severe
Private
Approach to the Rossi e Volante Bivouac Hut
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Approach to the Rossi e Volante Bivouac Hut

Cervinia
3.8 km
191 m
A simple but beautiful glacial journey
Easy
Private
Approach to the Mischabeljoch Bivouac Hut
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Approach to the Mischabeljoch Bivouac Hut

The Mischabel Range
8.2 km
1,759 m
A very big day from Täschalp which can be split with a night in the Täsch Hut
Moderate
Private
Traverse of the Grandes Jorasses, Day 1
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Traverse of the Grandes Jorasses, Day 1

Chamonix
4.8 km
902 m
A long and very committing route of the highest calibre
Severe
Private
Traverse of the Grandes Jorasses, Day 2
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Traverse of the Grandes Jorasses, Day 2

Chamonix
3.8 km
417 m
Committed now, you continue your sensational journey, space-walking along the historic ridge.
Severe
Private
Schreckhorn Lauteraarhorn traverse
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Schreckhorn Lauteraarhorn traverse

Bernese Oberland
10.0 km
1,798 m
One of the finest and longest ridge traverses in the Alps, on great rock
Severe
Private
Approach to the Aar Bivouac Hut
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Approach to the Aar Bivouac Hut

16.8 km
1,187 m
A massive flog or a long and wild journey, according to your take on it!
Easy
Private
The Boccalatte Hut.
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

The Boccalatte Hut.

Chamonix
2 - 3 hrs
4.0 km
1,210 m
0 m
An exceptional, adventurous hike featuring some sections of easy via ferrata and exposed terrain.
Extreme
Private
Approach to Schreckhorn Hut
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Approach to Schreckhorn Hut

Bernese Oberland
3 - 4 hrs
7.7 km
1,275 m
133 m
A long but very beautiful approach to a remote hut
Difficult
Private
Täschhorn-Dom Traverse
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP’s Editorial team.

Täschhorn-Dom Traverse

The Mischabel Range
7.8 km
894 m
A famous and committing high altitude traverse between two mighty peaks
Severe
Private