High, Long and Serious : Traverse 5 Tough Alpine 4000ers

The hardest traverses on the biggest and wildest peaks - this is about as serious as it gets in the Alps.

Charlie Boscoe

Images

RoyLindmanDomRanda_001.jpg
42896471784_fb5451c0ff_o.jpg
Charles Kuonen Suspension Bridge.jpg
Charles Kuonen Suspension Bridge

by Shay Solomon

Licence Free

Approach from the Klein Matterhorn.jpg
Approach from the Klein Matterhorn

by Jim Kelly

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Mellow angled glacier.jpg
Mellow angled glacier

by obitran55

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The hut lies at the foot of the R hand ridge.jpg
Busy night at the Canzio Hut.jpg
Busy night at the Canzio Hut

by Masa Sakano

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Canzio Hut at the lowest point of the ridge.jpg
Dôme de Rochefort.jpg
Dôme de Rochefort

by Masa Sakano

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The entire traverse from L to R.jpg
The entire traverse from L to R

by Nic Redhead

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Grandes Jorasses from the Midi.jpg
Fisheye view from the summit of Ponte Walker.jpg
View of the whole of this day and the descent.jpg
Exposed ridge climbing most of the way.jpg
Exposed ridge climbing most of the way

by Masa Sakano

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Schreckhorn from the N.jpg
Schreckhorn from the N

by Markus Keuter

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Long shot of Unteraar Glacier and Grimselsee.jpg
Long shot of Unteraar Glacier and Grimselsee

by Christoph Strässler

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Grimselsee.jpg
Grimselsee

by Ambient Photography

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Mont Blanc Massif 2007 082.jpg
Pulling on the ropes just below the hut.

by Charlie Boscoe

Creative Commons: Attribution
Path to Shreckhorn Hut.jpg
Path to Shreckhorn Hut

by martin_vmorris

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Cables to protect exposed sections.jpg
Cables to protect exposed sections

by martin_vmorris

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The mighty traverse from a distance.jpg
The mighty traverse from a distance

by Björn S...

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The traverse from the N, with Lenzspitze Nadelhorn superimposed.jpg
No escape off the ridge.jpg
No escape off the ridge

by Ralf Frenken

Licence Free

Description

Climbing an alpine 4000er is always a serious business thanks to altitude, technical difficulty, glacial travel and changeable conditions. There are 82 4000ers and if you've only climbed 1 then you deserve a pat on the back but if you tick some or all of the routes in the guidebook then you deserve a round of applause! These are meaty routes by any standard.

Some of the routes in here require huge approaches before you even reach a glacier and others, such as the Grand Jorasses traverse, also involve a tough descent too. Suffice to say that in addition to climbing these routes, simply getting to and from them represents a major challenge.

If this all sounds a little bit beyond you then here's our suggestions for some slightly easier 4000er traversing options -

https://fatmap.com/guidebooks/14523/classic-mid-grade-traverses-on-the-alpine-4000ers/@47.2370635,11.2575218,57079.0411781,-90,0,821.6976053,normal

So if you've served your alpine apprenticeship and are ready to tackle some of the toughest challenges the Alps have to offer, here is your readymade ticklist!

Adventures

The Boccalatte Hut.

An exceptional, adventurous hike featuring some sections of easy via ferrata and exposed terrain.