The Alpine Classics of the Mont Blanc Massif

There are countless Chamonix Classics and it can be hard to know where to start – these are some of the very best mid-grade routes in the region.

Jon Morgan

Images

Mont Blanc Summit.jpg
Mont Blanc Summit

by pandarek

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Seracs on Mont Maudit.jpg
Seracs on Mont Maudit

by César González Palomo

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Seracs on Mont Blanc du Tacul

by César González Palomo

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Tour Ronde,N face on R, E Face on L

by Carlos Baquero

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Distant view of Tour Ronde.jpg
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Teufelsgrat (Arete du Diable) - Übersichtsbild mit Route - Topo DAV Sektion Teisendorf

by Stefan Stadler

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Teufelsgrat - Arete du Diable - Topo DAV Sektion Teisendorf

by Stefan Stadler

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Rifugio Torino DAV Sektion Teisendorf

by Stefan Stadler

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Orange unserer Route - Gelb die Originalroute durch die Rinne oder später in die Rinne queren DAV Sektion Teisendorf

by Stefan Stadler

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Blick auf den Küfnergrat DAV Sektion Teisendorf

by Stefan Stadler

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während des Zustieg DAV Sektion Teisendorf

by Stefan Stadler

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die Querung im Schnee/Eis und das Col du Diable DAV Sektion Teisendorf

by Stefan Stadler

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Zustieg vom Col du Diable DAV Sektion Teisendorf

by Archiv Stefan Stadler

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Blick von oben auf den Einstieg mit der schwierigen Platte (Crux) DAV Sektion Teisendorf

by Stefan Stadler

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ausgesetzt auf die Pointe Chambert DAV Sektion Teisendorf

by Stefan Stadler

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Tiefblick von Pointe Chambert in die Nordseite und rechts die Corne du Diable DAV Sektion Teisendorf

by Stefan Stadler

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auch als Schatten toll anzusehen: Teufelsgrat DAV Sektion Teisendorf

by Stefan Stadler

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Breche Mediane DAV Sektion Teisendorf

by Stefan Stadler

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große Verschneidung an der Pointe Mediane von unten DAV Sektion Teisendorf

by Stefan Stadler

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tolle Kletterei an der Pointe Mediane DAV Sektion Teisendorf

by Stefan Stadler

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Blick zurück durch das Felsenfenser: Dent du Geant DAV Sektion Teisendorf

by Stefan Stadler

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Pointe Carmen: eine teuflisch scharfe Angelegenheit DAV Sektion Teisendorf

by Stefan Stadler

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Der Schatten des Mont Blanc du Tacul auf den Wolken DAV Sektion Teisendorf

by Stefan Stadler

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Pointe Mediane von hinten mit dem Felsenfenster DAV Sektion Teisendorf

by Stefan Stadler

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von der Pointe Mediane ist der Weg zum Mont Blanc du Tacul schön einzusehen DAV Sektion Teisendorf

by Stefan Stadler

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Tiefblick in die Breche Diable DAV Sektion Teisendorf

by Stefan Stadler

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Blick zurück auf die Teufelstürme DAV Sektion Teisendorf

by Stefan Stadler

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kurz vor dem Ostgipfel des Mont Blanc du Tacul DAV Sektion Teisendorf

by Stefan Stadler

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Mont Blanc du Tacul Ostgipfel - wird östlich (rechts) umgangen DAV Sektion Teisendorf

by Stefan Stadler

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Gipfelpanorama Mont Blanc du Tacul bei Sonnenuntergang DAV Sektion Teisendorf

by Stefan Stadler

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der Autor am Gipfel DAV Sektion Teisendorf

by Archiv Stefan Stadler

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Abstieg vom Gipfel nach dem Felsaufbau über den flachen Rücken und dann nach Norden (rechts) DAV Sektion Teisendorf

by Stefan Stadler

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Refugio Cosmiques, Aiguille di Midi, Aiguille du Plan, Aiguille Verde DAV Sektion Teisendorf

by Stefan Stadler

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Typically aesthetic climbing midway along the route.

by Peter Riley

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The famous traverse around the Pointe de l'Androsace.

by Peter Riley

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Sunrise on the route

by Peter Riley

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Looking back to the Aiguille du Midi from the summit of Mont Maudit

by Peter Riley

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Almost on the summit

by Peter Riley

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Looking up at the final section of the route to Mont Maudit.

by Peter Riley

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Enjoying the stunning location of the Fourche hut

by Peter Riley

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Hanging out on the abseils down the Rognan du Plan.

by Charlie Boscoe

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Climbing the final slope to the Aiguille du Plan summit tower.

by Charlie Boscoe

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Looking back along the traverse from the Aiguille du Plan's summit.

by Charlie Boscoe

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Beginning the route, just after the foot of the Aiguille du Midi arête.

by Charlie Boscoe

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Cosmiques from the Midi lift.jpg
Cosmiques from the lift

by Masa Sakano

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Cosmiques from the viewing platform.jpg
Cosmiques from the viewing platform

by Vin Crosbie

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Cosmiques on the ridge.jpg
Cosmiques on the ridge

by Joshua

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Cosmiques cling up the final chimney.jpg
Aiguille du Tour Summit.jpg
AIguille du Tour Summit

by Nicolas Vigier

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Aiguille du Tour. View from the hut of the Chardonnet.jpg
View of the Chardonnet from the hut

by Guillaume Baviere

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Aiguille du Tour View from summit.jpg
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View from the Couvercle at dawn

by Jerome Bon

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Couvercle Old Hut

by sebastien gay

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Couvercle view of old and new huts with Mont Blanc.jpg
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Looking up the Glacier du Tour towards the impressive Aiguille du Chardonnet.

by Charlie Boscoe

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On the snow slope that leads from the glacier to the Tête Blanche's North-west ridge.

by Charlie Boscoe

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Gorgeous evening light at the Refuge Albert Premier

by Charlie Boscoe

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The route in profile

by Charlie Boscoe

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Just below the summit tower

by Charlie Boscoe

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Summit!

by Charlie Boscoe

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Abseiling off the summit

by Charlie Boscoe

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The famous pinnacle midway along the route which has been the scene of many a photo.

by Charlie Boscoe

Description

Just driving into Chamonix can take your breath away - the mountains look high, steep and virtually impossible to climb. In many cases, looks aren't deceiving - Chamonix is home to some of the toughest alpine climbs on the planet - but there are also some brilliant alpine adventures for mere mortals in the most famous mountain valley of them all.

This guidebook showcases a handful of those routes, with a combination of short day trips like the Aiguilles Marbées Traverse and the Cosmiques Arête, and longer, more committing missions like the Aiguille Verte's Whymper Couloir and Mont Maudit's Frontier Ridge. The one thing that unites these climbs is that they are not too technically difficult - if you're fit, experienced and solid on intermediate alpine terrain then all of these routes should be attainable.

If you tick them off and are ready to step it up a notch, then give this lot a go!

https://fatmap.com/guidebooks/14550/high-long-and-serious-:-traverse-5-tough-alpine-4000ers

Adventures

Pointes Lachenal: La boucle (Face N)

An easy winter run in one day with ski approach. The return trip is by the Aiguille du Midi cable car (350 m. of ascent) or by the descent of the Vallée Blanche.

Midi - Plan Traverse

A truly classic route, which is serious and exposed but not technically difficult.

Couvercle Hut Approach

A journey up the Vallée Blanche then ladders up to a remote hut in a wild and beautiful place