Guidebook

The Alpine Classics of the Mont Blanc Massif

There are countless Chamonix Classics and it can be hard to know where to start – these are some of the very best mid-grade routes in the region.

Jon Morgan

Description

Just driving into Chamonix can take your breath away - the mountains look high, steep and virtually impossible to climb. In many cases, looks aren't deceiving - Chamonix is home to some of the toughest alpine climbs on the planet - but there are also some brilliant alpine adventures for mere mortals in the most famous mountain valley of them all.

This guidebook showcases a handful of those routes, with a combination of short day trips like the Aiguilles Marbées Traverse and the Cosmiques Arête, and longer, more committing missions like the Aiguille Verte's Whymper Couloir and Mont Maudit's Frontier Ridge. The one thing that unites these climbs is that they are not too technically difficult - if you're fit, experienced and solid on intermediate alpine terrain then all of these routes should be attainable.

If you tick them off and are ready to step it up a notch, then give this lot a go!

https://fatmap.com/guidebooks/14550/high-long-and-serious-:-traverse-5-tough-alpine-4000ers

Mont Blanc, 4808m. The 3 Monts Route
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP's Editorial team.

Mont Blanc, 4808m. The 3 Monts Route

Chamonix
15.4 km
1,465 m
A huge day out through very complicated glacial terrain to the highest peak in Western Europe
Moderate
Private
Tour Ronde, 3792m. Normal Route (E Face)
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP's Editorial team.

Tour Ronde, 3792m. Normal Route (E Face)

Chamonix
5.7 km
669 m
A relatively short route to a fantastic summit with breathtaking views of the S side of Mont Blanc
Moderate
Private
Pointes Lachenal: La boucle (Face N)

Pointes Lachenal: La boucle (Face N)

Chamonix
0.1 km
59 m
An easy winter run in one day with ski approach. The return trip is by the Aiguille du Midi cable car (350 m. of ascent) or by the descent of the Vallée Blanche.
Difficult
Private
Mont Maudit, Frontier/Kuffner Ridge.
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP's Editorial team.

Mont Maudit, Frontier/Kuffner Ridge.

Chamonix
5.7 km
1,249 m
A memorable technical mountaineering route up one of the finest ridges of its standard in the Alps, the Frontier Ridge.
Severe
Private
Midi - Plan Traverse
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP's Editorial team.

Midi - Plan Traverse

Chamonix
4.6 km
700 m
A truly classic route, which is serious and exposed but not technically difficult.
Difficult
Private
Aiguille du Midi, 3842m. Cosmiques Arête
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP's Editorial team.

Aiguille du Midi, 3842m. Cosmiques Arête

Chamonix
1.2 km
299 m
An iconic and accessible route with great and varied climbing, with amazing exposure down to Chamonix
Difficult
Private
Aiguille du Tour, 3540m
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP's Editorial team.

Aiguille du Tour, 3540m

Arve Valley
7.1 km
785 m
A classic introductory alpine peak, with stunning views from the summit.
Easy
Private
Albert Premier Hut - Charamillon - Short
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP's Editorial team.

Albert Premier Hut - Charamillon - Short

Chamonix
2 - 3 hrs
8.1 km
574 m
574 m
An accessible and beautifully-situated high mountain hut with a variety of approaches.
Difficult
Private
Couvercle Hut Approach
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP's Editorial team.

Couvercle Hut Approach

Chamonix
6.6 km
969 m
A journey up the Vallée Blanche then ladders up to a remote hut in a wild and beautiful place
Easy
Private
Aiguille Verte, 4122m. Whymper Couloir
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP's Editorial team.

Aiguille Verte, 4122m. Whymper Couloir

Chamonix
7.1 km
1,425 m
One of the toughest classic 4000m peaks which enjoys some of the finest views in the range.
Difficult
Private
Tête Blanche North-west Ridge.
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP's Editorial team.

Tête Blanche North-west Ridge.

Arve Valley
7.7 km
715 m
A classic easy peak which provides a wonderful journey through high and beautiful mountains.
Moderate
Private
Aiguilles Marbrées Traverse
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP's Editorial team.

Aiguilles Marbrées Traverse

Chamonix
2.7 km
248 m
A great training route that can be done in either direction, easier N to S as described.
Moderate
Private
Aiguille d'Entrèves traverse
The best Routes on FATMAP, hand-picked by FATMAP's Editorial team.

Aiguille d'Entrèves traverse

Chamonix
5.3 km
483 m
An amazingly exposed rocky ridge, but never too hard, with incredible views
Difficult
Private