FATMAP difficulty grade
A much sought after summit for those staying in the Pioneer hut, this mountain has a very remote feel with outstanding views of both Mt Tasman and Aoraki.
It involves complicated glacial navigation as well as steep snow slopes and exposed ridges.
It requires an early start to enable a safe and easy return journey across the glacier.
Two snow pickets will be found to be useful on the final summit slopes to protect both ascent and descent. From the Pioneer hut, descend gradually crossing the Albert Glacier and before traversing gradually up and around the edge of Mt Haast to access Haast Corner, a snow gully sandwiched between Mt Haast and the glacier.
Beware of rockfall in this area.
Ascend Haast Corner steeply on the right side to avoid rockfall danger.
This leads to a heavily crevassed section of glacier before easier angled glacial terrain leads up to Marcel Col (2,987m) where spectacular views to Mt Cook and the east side of the divide open up.
You should be reaching here for around sunrise and the ascent takes between an hour and a half and two hours. A short but steep climb up the broad snow ridge (snow pickets useful) leads to an easier angled, though still magnificently exposed section leading to the summit of Lendenfeld Peak at 3,194m.
A spectacular place to be and a fine opportunity to plot a future trip up the north shoulder of Mt Tasman.
Return via the same route being careful to protect the descent and mindful of the increased rockfall danger in Haast corner as the day warms up.