Despite the long access and the descent too, the short walls N (150 to 200 m) under the ridge W of Dovški Križ are worth the effort (wild atmosphere, beautiful climbing). Since 2007, vias appeared. "Megakamin." (kamin = chimney), the most evident line, was the first way opened in these walls, to be the normal way to the hill Grlo (2390 m) that we take in the descent.

Statistics

0

m

119

m

39

max°

Difficulty

FATMAP difficulty grade

Severe

Description

## Access # 2h30 from the bivouac From Gozd Martuljek, go up to the Za Akom shelter-bivac (1h30, see itinerary in the associated file). From the bivac, follow the valley (tartera) to the poise of the promontory of ""Pri treh macesnih"".

(three larches). Go up to Pri treh macesnih : go up the edge of moray eels (vegetation) then go down to the left in the canal.

Then go up diagonally to the right towards Pri treh macesnih (uncomfortable just before the exit). From Pri treh macesnih, go straight up to the wide terrace then go *all straight* along the tartera, remaining on the right.

Pass the rocky bar on the right, then enter the ravine *behind* Mali Oltar.

At the end of the ravine, Megakamin is on the left, not to be missed. ## Via # IV+, 150 m L# | III | 30 m | Manage the pedestal from right to left (unstable).

Meeting to the left of the chimney.

L# | IV+ | 60 m | Enter towards the bottom of the chimney, then go up (IV, IV+).

When it narrows, meeting uncomfortable (1 python in the meeting). L# | IV | 60 m | Continue taking first to the outside right (IV) then return and exit on III. [img=678054 center]Dovški Križ, edge W : Megakamin, IV+, 150m[/img] [img=585824 center]Access (above shelter-bivac Za Akom)[/img] ## Descent Follow the ridge towards the W to the Grlo pass (2390 m, the pass between the W edge of Dovški Križ and 'Oltar).

Go down to the right (N) along a short wall that looks bad, but with some milestone.

Watch out for the curves after the cornices (II).

We go back to the beginning of the road.

Follow the downstream initrindo access. (From the cabbage Grlo, we can also go down side Vrata valley (slope S), in that case manage the flank S (friable, some milestone) diagonally to the left (E).

Then go down the tartera to get to the refugio-bivac [[waypoints/672244|Bivak II]] and follow the descent (the opposite of the bivac's pedestrian access.

Long.)_.<br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence._