Great classic! The Debeljak variant of the Aschenbrenner route offers a free route.

Statistics

680

m

0

m

69

max°

Difficulty

FATMAP difficulty grade

Extreme

Description

## Approach (2h from the refuge) From the Tamar refuge, follow the signposted path Slemenova špica.

At the end of the scree block, as the path turns left, go straight up into the gutter.

At the end, aim for the top right-hand bottleneck.

When it tightens up by the grassy side to the right, then aim for the lowest point of the wall (well below the large overhangs). [img=583842 right]N side of Travnik : Aschenbrenner - Debeljak variant[/img] ## Track # VI+/V, VI, 800 m, 7 at 12 o'clock L# | IV | Slabs (aim for large overhangs). L# | II | Manage in ascendancy to the right. L# | IV- | Go up into the pool under the large overhangs. L# | II | From the small gap at the top left of the pool, descend on a turn and follow it to a niche. L# | IV | Continue along the turn to the left (a step of IV at the beginning).

When you reach the slabs, climb a little up to reach the next turn. L# | IV | Follow the turn to the left. L# | V- | Continue along the turn to the bottom of a tall chimney. L# | V- | Chimney.

Relay on the stuck block. L# | IV+ | Chimney (IV).

Under the overhang, exit to the right and go up the "pillar".

(IV+) to a turn. L# | V- | Follow the turn to the left (IV, V-), pass the top of the chimney, and join a small pool (comfortable relay). The original track takes here on the right, right into the wall. #### Debeljak variant L# | V | Follow the turn to the left until you reach the two cracks.

Take the one on the right (V) up to the scale. L# | VI+ | Tiles.

Avoid the overhang to the left (VI+).

After the small turn, go up to the left (V+) to the relay (scale). L# | V | Follow the wide cracks diagonally to the right (V).

(the next five lengths maintain this direction). L# | VI | Crack.

After the overhang (VI), continue and exit on the right towards the foot of the next crack. L# | VI- | Crack.

Dülfer.

Pass the overhang to the left. L# | V- | Dihedral. L# | V+ | Crack.

Exit on the right on the slab. L# | VI | Crack, then take the overhang to the right (VI) and join a comfortable relay (this relay is again in common with the original track, but see Note 1). L# | V+ | Follow the narrowed gutter to the left then cross to the left (V+) and go up (delicate) to a niche. [p] The next three lengths follow the ramp, a large turn rising diagonally to the left. L# | IV+ | Not delicate when leaving the niche, then III. L# | III | Continue in ascendancy. L# | III | Continue and finish by staying on the left. L# | III | From the basin at the top of the ramp, take the gully/chimney on the right (II, III) to the terrace (from this terrace, the integral path continues to the right - see note 2). From the terrace, turn left (I/II, step, stretched rope) towards the NE ridge for about two lengths.

Follow the ridge (max III, stretched rope) for about three lengths to the top. ## Descent (2h30 to 3h) Follow the ridge line towards the E until Mala Mojstrovka.

From the summit of Mala Mojstrovka, follow the marked path to Tamar refuge or the road pass Vršič (refuges).<br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence._