The Grand Gendarme of Jegigrat places the NE of Jegiturm, the climax of Jegigrat. Vaucher proposes to first cross the Jegigrat SW-NE and then combine it with the Grand Gendarme, with two descents. Stephane Maire describes the climb to the Grand Gendarme and then the SW crossing of the Jegigrat.


Analysing terrain data









The exposure grade does not take into account objective hazards (stone fall, seracs, etc) but only the consequences of the climber falling.

Low Exposure: The route is well protected or easy enough that protection is not required.

Medium Exposure: The route features some exposed and/or difficult to protect sections.

High Exposure: Much of the route is difficult to protect and a fall could be disastrous at certain points.

Extreme Exposure: The majority of the route is "no fall" terrain.

The majority of the route is "no fall" terrain.


##Access # 1 h 30 from Weissmies shelter or 2h-2 h 30 from Kreuzboden From the Weissmies cabin follow the itinerary of Fletschhorn (moraine on the left bank of Tälligletscher, on the right going up) and cross the Tälligletscher, fossilized, about 2930 m in the direction of the Gendarme located just after the Jegiturm, little visible at the beginning, more and more evident then (possible ascent by the right moraine, but annoying end in the blocks).

climb the uncomfortable stones (a little marked path in the middle of the route) up to the beginning of beautiful plaques that form the foot of the Gendarme.

milestone at the beginning. ##Grand Gendarme Climb # 2 h 30 start from the left flank plates and soon reach the edge with nice balancing steps.

climb the next dihedral and a small plunge to the right.

Follow a small red wall on the left, reach a niche, cross a small ledge, pass E slope, follow a 10 m dihedral on the left.

cross a wall in fine horizontal fissures, pass E slope and climb the vertical wall with dams that lead to the summit. ##Travesia SW de la Jegigrat # 2h-3h From the summit, descend slope N by a rappel of 25 m then a cornice leads SW to the edge.

Or stop at less than 20 m, a short climb then a second rappel flown less than 20 m also SW slope.

Follow the edge, aerial steps, 3c at most.

Only equipment, the rappel chemicals of the inverted crossing.

from point 3350, which marks the end of the SW crossing of the Jegigrat, easily reach the end of the Via Ferrata. ## Ascension of the Jegihorn # 30-45 min Follow the Via Ferrata to the summit of Jegihorn (cross).

Do not go down the Puiseux corridor, as indicated in the old reviews: easy but dangerous, very unstable terrain in slabs, falling blocks. ## Descent # 1 h 30 By the path W then S, many blue and white marks.

and we reach the good path that leads to Kreuzboden<br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike]( licence._