Statistics

1,186

m

834

m

45

max°

Difficulty

FATMAP difficulty grade

Severe

Description

## Access n°1 - by the Popoff Breach (the fastest but also the most delicate) img=648125 right]Access to the Finch from Ciottulu via the Popoff Breach (seen from around the Foggiale Shoulder)[/img] From the[Ciottulu Refuge in i Mori] (http://www.camptocamp.org/huts/142972/fr/refuge-de-ciottulu-di-i-mori) (1991 m). Go up off-trail (but following cairns) direction NE to Épaule de Foggiale (2302 m). Go down to the E of at least 50 m of altitude difference, then stay level for several hundred meters by aiming at the Popoff Breach (2340 m, located on the SE ridge of the Paglia Orba, under the Popoff Tower which draws its profile overhanging to the left of the breach); go up a short corridor which leads, by a few climbing steps (2, useless rope), to the breach.

[see photo plot](http://www.camptocamp.org/images/648125/fr/acces-a-la-finch-depuis-ciottulu-par-la-breche-popoff-vue-depuis-les-environs-de-l-epaule-de-foggial). From the rift, we can admire the profile of the E side. Go down on the N side of the breach, by easy turns (2) but expo, to the abseiling ring (straps + link). A vertical abseiling of 45 m then a descent of a few tens of meters in an easy corridor allow to enter the circus at the foot of face E. Go along this face horizontally towards the N, crossing a few rocky steps, until you reach the foot of spur E; step on its wire and go up to the attack (2280 m). The attack is located at D of a yellowish cambered, on a mini platform, at the entrance of a corridor inclined to the right, extending into a chimney; first peak visible at 10 m on the left side of the chimney. ## Access n°2 - by the Breche du Sphinx From the[Ciottulu Refuge in i Mori] (http://www.camptocamp.org/huts/142972/fr/refuge-de-ciottulu-di-i-mori) (1991 m). Follow the GR20 E until you reach the Col de Foggiale (1962 m). By an ascending crossing off-trail, easily reach the Breche du Sphinx (2080 m), just to the left of the Sphinx (2161 m, characteristic gendarme). Through an easy corridor, reach the bottom of the circus at the foot of the E side, then take a right foot on the E spur that you climb (a few steps of 2) until you reach the attack (2280 m, see access n°1 for location). *NB: for access n°3 from Calasima via the Ballone sheepfolds, see at the end of the description. ## Track description [img=278447 center]Paglia Orba - Topo Voie Finch[/img] Overall track routing: 100 m of climb in part D of the face, complete crossing of the Vire Finch to the left to the Brèche des Anglais, and ascent from the Arête SE to the summit (see diagram).

[see photo plot](http://www.camptocamp.org/images/278447/fr/paglia-orba-topo-voie-finch). The relays are given as an indication, many possible locations; they are generally to be made (straps or friends). A total of about ten peaks in the track (sometimes well rusted). L# | 4a | 45 m | Climb the inclined corridor to the right and then the next chimney (3b, 1 piton after 10 m); a second chimney (4a) leads to a small terrace; climb a mini dihedral (3c) and recover on a large terrace (R1). L# | 3b | 30 m | Climb a mini wall on the left of the terrace (3b) to get a foothold on a long sloping surface; climb it on the left (3a) to the foot of a small vertical wall (R2, 2 pitons). L# | 5a+ | 35 m | Climb the small wall (bordered on the left by a crack) (4c); cross obliquely to the right (3b, 1 piton) ; go up a chimney for 5 m then cross a large scale on its right (5b) and always cross at D to the foot of a large corridor that goes up to the left ; do not go up this corridor, but cross a small slab and then a small wall at D (4c) to gain a foothold on a small breach to the left of a large block (R3, béquet). L# | 3b | 40 m | Through large boulders and then easy rocks (3b), turn right to reach Vire Finch (2380 m); follow it left for a few meters (2) to a good terrace (R4, béquet). L# | 4b | 35 m | Cross a small wall that obstructs the turn (4b, 1 piton), then follow the turn on easy ground (2) stopping before the passage of the large dihedral (R5, 2 pitons). L# | 4a | 70 m | Pass the large dihedral (climb an exposed chimney, 4a), then continue to transfer it always to easy ground (2) and finish with a stretched rope (R6, large beak).

Possible intermediate relay at the end of the rope at 50 m (beautiful green terrace). L# | 5a+ | 35 m | Finish the turn (2) until you reach the Brèche des Anglais (1 piton); climb a bulge (5b, 1 piton), bordered at D by a crack ; once restored on a platform, climb a chimney (3c) leading to the entrance of a tunnel (this tunnel leads to the entrance of a tunnel (this tunnel leads to a slope S, allowing thanks to an easy descent corridor (2/3) to reach the access by the Foggiale Shoulder - only escape route of the track); climb a small wall from 3 m to D (3b) to recover on a small terrace on the SE ridge: we arrived at the Breche des Anglais (2420 m) (R7). L# | 4b |40 m | Climb a wall (4b) then steps (3c), staying to the left of the edge line, to a large terrace under huge blocks (R8). L# | 4c | 45 m | Cross slab to D to a scale (4a) then climb a small wall (4c); step into a wide sloping corridor on the left, pass a mini wall (4c) then climb the chimney that borders the corridor on the left (3c) to a mini terrace (R9). L# | 4a | 50 m | Climb the small tafoni wall that obstructs the top of the corridor (4a); then climb through easy steps by pulling right (3a max) to reach the top plateau (R10 at the end of the rope). L# | 1 | 30 m | Reach the top by walking the rings by hand. ##Descending By the[Normal Track] (http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/54423/fr/paglia-orba-voie-normale) (SW edge then W, PD- slope, chimneys in 2, useless rope) which leads back to the refuge. #### Access and return variant (via Ballone) Access n°3 - from Calasima From the Calasima track (can be driven up to 1310 m, small car park). To reach the Bergeries de Ballone (1440 m) by a good path marked in yellow (direction N); return to the SSW via the GR20 to the Ruisseau de la Paglia Orba (1370 m). Go up its right bank then G off the path (easy terrain, some cairns), until the Lake of Paglia Orba (1515 m); go up the ravine as far as possible, until you reach the spur E to D; take a foot and climb it (a few steps from 2) until the attack (2280 m, see access n°1 for the location). Return Once you reach the Ciottulu Refuge in i Mori (1991 m) by the Normal Road, follow the GR20 via the Col de Foggiale (1962 m) to the Bergeries de Ballone, then the path back to the car.<br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence._