FATMAP difficulty grade



## Access # 1 h [img=280657 right]Grand Darray, edge SE[/img] From the refuge of l'A Neuve, follow the path (milestones) that climbs the Grande Lui for 20 minutes then climb to the easiest oblique tarteras up to the pass of Essettes (3107 m). Do not follow the tracks that go up too fast the corridors towards the Pointes des Essettes. ## Climbing # 3 h From the hill, start the edge by a small wall of 5 m vertical (III+, one spit).

follow the vertical plates to a cornice that we follow to the right (2 milestones), pass 1 spit and mount the meeting on the 2nd spit. go up the next length straight on 20 m IV+ (some spit and 1 python then meeting with chain).

then go out to the right (1 spit then 2<sup>a</sup> meeting with cadana 20 m above) To follow easily the more in the edge until a gendarme (II-III).

From then on, rappel 20 m (chain meeting) to a breach (1 spit, possible dexterity).

From the breccia, continue on the edge sometimes aerial (100 m, III) until a small landing.

go out in oblique to the left 2-3 m because all straight 20 m in a beautiful plate in IV with 1 spit at the beginning then 2 orange pythons and 1 meeting with chain. to continue the more in the edge which becomes easier and easier on 100 m.

after the small quarry, the climbing becomes again more interesting.

to climb something to the right (III, IV, some spit).

then easily up to the antecima, from where one sees the summit very close. A spit with ring allows to rappel 20 m.

(dexterity possible) Then go up the easy edge to the top. ## Descent # 3 possibilities img=656264 right]rouge = edge SSE, green= glacier Darray, pink= flank E[/img][img=656265 right]edge NNE and flank E[/img]. 1.

On the outward journey. The 2 steps rappeled when the ascent presents some point of insurance : a python above the 1<sup>era</sup> ascent ; the ascent of the gendarme is made by climbing obliquely to the left over 3 m, then straight ahead next to a dihedral (1 spit). many descents are dexterous and rappelan, 2 in the vertical stretch below.

we can rappel more if necessary because there are many spits with rings. 3 h 30 until the cabin 2.

On the NNE ridge then the E flank, summit of the Treutse Bô glacier. faster than the turn on the edge SSE ! easily descend the ridge to a small gendarme (3460 m) that we go up something to find a spit to rappel 10 m (or contour it by the left side of Darray glacier descending 8 m.

soon back to the ridge).

follow the descent to a well marked breach (3400 m) before a large gendarme (milestone).

then descend 15 meters slope E, then still cross to the left by very easy cornices (milestones and red marks).

Do not descend all straight into the runner! then 3 rappels of 20 m with spits to pass a vertical plate.

Since then, return by a cornice to the right (red marks) that lead to the glacier icehouses of Treutse Bô.

easily reach the top pass of Essettes.

1 h 45 from the summit to the pass 2 h 45 to the refuge 3.

By the NNE ridge then the Darray glacier.

only with good conditions of the glacier ! beginning as the descent n°2, until the breach 3400 m then to descend the glacier of Darray by a small corridor of stones on 50 m.

(spit left bank for an eventual abseiling.

to descend the glacier and to pass the pass of Tita Neire to arrive at the cabin Saleinaz.<br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike]( licence._