Analysing terrain data
The exposure grade does not take into account objective hazards (stone fall, seracs, etc) but only the consequences of falling.
Low Exposure (E1): Exposure is limited to that of the slope itself. Getting hurt is still likely if the slope is steep and/or the snow is hard.
Medium Exposure (E2): As well as the slope itself, there are some obstacles (such as rock outcrops) which could aggravate injury.
High Exposure (E3): In case of a fall, death is highly likely.
Extreme Exposure (E4): Certain death in the case of a fall.
##Up J1 : From Saas Allmagell (perfect access by public transport), go up to the Almagellerhütte shelter (2890 m) in 3-4 h.
We can eventually sleep in the Allmagelleralp Hotel (2194 m), which extends the access to 45 min.
Often full shelter because at the foot of the Weissmies, one of the 4000 m most crowded in Switzerland... J2: From the refuge, take the well marked march (yellow dots) crossing under the face W of Portjengrat.
get lost in the fridges (branches S of Rotblattgletscher, without cracks), but the gap to reach (called the Port) is very well seen (small tower characteristic to the S of that).
Do not climb up to the breach but start below the level of a large yellow arrow painted on the rock (2 h quiet from the shelter).
Go up a series of cracked plates and bleachers (III+, in the shade in the morning, sometimes frozen, austero) in 3-4 lengths to reach the sun, at the ridge.
A 1st reselte extraplomado is passed with the help of a bar of iron, edge then easy and is crossed in ensemble.
we draw a tower to the left before going down in a breach. The rest of the ridge is full of gendarmes to reach a snowy chair (which begins more or less at the point of union with the rocky elevation W that leaves from Point 3295 m) : you can contour the gendarmes (the last are harder) by cornices slope W, but it is more beautiful to climb them even if you lengthen the route : beautiful golden gneiss, IV+ steps according to the review of the CAS but looks more like 5 modern, very little equipment.
we arrive at the snow-covered chair that allows us to link the upper part of the ridge by going upwards slightly further down the W slope (we have already made about half of the ridge). The rest of the ridge is first easy then straighten up and again presents a series of towers that are usually extraplomadas Italian slope and pleasant Swiss slope.
we can avoid some on the left, but it is better to climb them.
Itinerary not very evident, some ptión scarce, often too delicate to progress in ensemble...but the climbing is precious and aerial in a rock almost perfect.
we initiate the last gendarme by a cornice slope E.
4 to 6 h from the beginning, 6 to 8 h from the refuge. ##Descent continue on the edge (now N), pass a placosoo ledge with the help of a 15 m abseil.
Solid abseiling ring sealed in the rock.
follow some meter on the edge to the foot of a gendarme.
circumvent this 1st gendarme on the right (east) down a ramp (good dams on a healthy rock, cordine ring to ensure) then follow a slight climb to reach the gap in the first and second gendarme.
beware, there are also abseiling rings W slope and visible from below the first abseil; false pista ?? Contour the 2nd gendarme on the left (W) and reach a cornice between the 2nd and 3rd gendarmes.
Draw the 3rd gendarme on the east side.
(we pass between large sheets of granito ; easy terrain). reach the edge of the ridge by a somewhat physical step (good prey III) and reach the summit of du 4e gendarme by the ridge without difficulty.
(end of climbing difficulties) From the 4th gendarme go down easily to the edge until you reach the first fridge.
in the first fridge we can leave the ridge and start the descent W.
go down in a slightly descending crossing (direction NW) in the stones or frosts according to the season (useful crampons) to the ridge W of Portjenhorn towards 3300 m.
Do not throw too much to the left because we would be on rocky bars.
follow at sight in the tarteras in the direction of the refuge.
some milestone and discontinuous tracks.
the downhill itinerary can be seen from the refuge the day before.
Count 2 h / 2 h 30 from the summit to the refuge. <br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence._