FATMAP difficulty grade
##Approach From the Plan de l'Aiguille, take the SE road towards the Glacier des Pèlerins.
Go up the right bank moraine, and easily reach the foot of the SW ridge. [img=223898 right]Grütter Ridge, first jump[/img] ##Itinerary #### 1<sup>er</sup>jump The attack is carried out, below, on the left, vertical white slabs located to the right of the 1<sup>er</sup>jump.
Depending on the height of the snow, it is easy to get a foothold on 2 small terraces.
Go up a dihedral on the left for 20 m (4a).
Cross left for 10 m (3a) to a good spoiler (cord ring).
Climb above (4c), cross 5 m to the left to wobbly blocks, descend to a corridor chimney under black overhangs.
Cross the corridor chimney and climb opposite by cracks and slabs (1 piton, 4a) to a wide spoiler.
Join a small terrace 1 m to the left (3b), climb the block-clogged chimney just above (1 piton, 4c) to reach a good turn (2 pitons), cross 10 m to the left to the end of the turn (2), continue to the left (4b 1 step), pass a small spur and reach grassy turns to the left.
Go up to the easiest (3a - 4a) for 100 m by lanes and dihedrals, returning to the right on the rounded central piler of the jump. Reach the foot of the 100 m "dihedral", which runs along the face and is clearly visible from the glacier.
A small roof is at the beginning on the left (1 piton).
Pass this small roof (4c), continue in the dihedral sometimes by taking its left side (4a), pass an overhang on the right (1 piton, 5b) and join a good block (strap).
Continue in the dihedral, wide crack (4c), 1 piton, straight ahead under a chimney/dihedral with a roof (4a, 2 pitons), climb the chimney (1 piton, 5a), cross under the roof on the right and exit above (2 pitons with rope ring).
Straight into the dihedral (3c) for a short length 15 m to reach a good spoiler on the left side (1 strap).
Go back to the right at the bottom of the dihedral by a ramp, get back into the dihedral (1 bad piton), straight above (1 piton 4c), cross 2 m to the left, straight and go back a little on the right to reach the bottom of the grooves, climb these grooves (5b, 2 pitons) to reach the edge wire (1 ring).
Straight above for 5 m, then cross to the right by a good turn to reach the breach to the right of the top of the 1<sup>er</sup>jump. [p] #### 2<sup>e</sup> jump Cross to the right for 10 m and go down slightly (3a).
Go straight up to the ridge, pass on the left side of the ridge (4c), cross up to the left (4a).
Reach the top of the 2<sup>e</sup>rejump (3c). #### 3<sup>e</sup> jump Continue on the edge by passing a breach.
Rise up a superb crack (4a, an old corner at the top).
Continue on the ridge passing at best (3-4a) to reach the top of the 3<sup>e</sup>jump (1 spit of 8mm, 1 piton). Continue on the left flank edge to above the breach at the foot of the 4<sup>e</sup>jump.
De-escalate 5 m (3c), straight on the left flank edge to reach the breach.
Pass right flank (glacier slope of the Pilgrims), go down in a corridor (30 m 3b) to reach the turns of the normal track. ### 4<sup>e</sup> jump The description of the race in the 100 most beautiful inverts two paragraphs. The start is therefore very high, just downstream of the breach.
The first length passes through a system of cross cracks (picture of the middle in the 100 most beautiful) quite to the left of a characteristic rocky nose (0 piton). The second length pulls a little to the right at the relay before returning to the left in a crack (2 pitons) and crossing to the right at the 2nd piton, we fall on the relay hidden behind a small jump. We continue just above in a rather steep dihedral equipped with 1 to 2 pitons and a relay at its top, we notice a block overhanging easily visible to our left a little above.
At this point it may be more appropriate to continue crossing to the right (1 point) and relay on a comfortable block. There we pull very hard on the right (1 piton + big link and another one more on the right below a small jump). The next relay can be done on a large boulder, a small ten meters below another characteristic rocky nose similar to the one encountered in the previous relay. The fifth length crosses below this block (1 piton below the block) and climbs up a dihedral crack before crossing to the right to the next relay below the length of the grooves (two parallel cracks, magnificent rock). We go up the two cracks to reach a terrace (relay). Then you have to cross to the left to follow the edge line on the right (big chimney) then come back to the left to find a terrace and the window of which Rebuffat speaks. Above, we follow the (misplaced) indications of the 100 most beautiful, namely,""follow the ridge (in III) to reach a cave (crumbling rock).
Cross two metres and then gain a cracked slab just below the edge to return to the edge"".
We relay and the next length on the edge (2 points) brings us to the square gendarme. We pass on the terrace opposite then we attack the ridge by the left to join another convenient terrace. The last length is in the dihedral evident above the terrace and leads to the comb slab (2 peaks in the same place), we go out to the top. ##Descending # 2h From the summit, go down towards the Col des Pèlerins and go around the first gendarme on the left (slope N).
Then go down slope S by a corridor parallel to the corridor of the pass to an oblique turn (passages in II-III).
Follow this turn for 100 m and reach the corridor of the Col des Pèlerins.
Then join the Pilgrims' Glacier and the Plan de l'Aiguille.<br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence._