FATMAP difficulty grade
## Approach # (approx.
2h30) From the Cougourde refuge (2100 m), follow the cairné path of the normal Cougourde route (Cime I - 2921 m) which passes to the E of Lac des Sagnes to the foot (~2600m) of the SW ridge (Cime IV - 2892 m). ## Track # (approx.
3h) L# | | II | From the foot of the ridge, cross to the left (W) (1 spit) to pass a pillar and relay at the bottom of a dihedral. L# | IV+ | Go up this beautiful dihedral crack (3 spits) then steps to the right to gain a beautiful platform above (junction with the original route, descent chain to the right). L# | IV+ | Go up in ascent on the left (1 spit), leave an old relay on the right, climb a crack (rather on the left) avoid the dihedral chimney on the right to make relay shortly afterwards on the left side of the edge. L# | III | Go up a grassy ramp to the edge of the ridge (strap) then rather on the left side of the ridge to find a relay on a small terrace. L# | III | Continue to raise the slabs straight up on the left side of the edge to relay under the small wall of the next length. L# | IV | Rise yellow slabs then a short wall (small overhang, spit) to relay near the edge.
Chained relay which is the relay of the second abseil if you go down by the edge.
Short length. L# | | II | Easily raise the screws to the characteristic shoulder of the edge. L#8-9 | III | III | From the turn, reach the edge either by climbing up a pitched crack (V+?) to the left, or straight ahead by crossing a wall (III ?). Then continue on the edge of the edge that lies down (II) until the top of Cime IV (2892 m).
These last lengths are easily covered with a stretched rope. ## Descent Options : - If we go to the top, through the S side of rift III-IV. Head towards breach IV-III to easily find a recall chain (E side).
Get down to the rift by a 30 m abseil.
Follow a turn on the left bank of lane S for 30 m without going down too far, which leads to a second abseil.
Be careful, it is easy but exposed at the beginning on slabs.
Second abseiling of 40 m where you have to pull a little to the right when looking at the rock.
It deposits on a good platform.
From there, go down a small corridor with some de-escalation passages in II, and pull down to the left.
There are cairns.
We then find a third abseil that drops in 50 m on a good turn.
You can also continue on foot with a few more de-escalation passages in III/III+ by pulling to the left first and then to the right.
From the turn, walk towards the N to bypass the small bar that carries the turn and then join the scree of the normal track and return to the foot of the ridge towards the S. - If we stop over the shoulder, as reminders. Downhill in 5 stainless steel rappels, not necessarily easy to find....
The reminder relays that are not the track relays are either on the wire or on the S side.
The track relays have links (small or large), so they can also be used if necessary. - If time and timing permit, it is very interesting to continue along the[roads/288823|crossing the edges] to the top I.
Count 1h30 to 2h.
The descent from the I summit does not present any difficulty (path).<br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence._