Statistics

1,288

m

1,288

m

51

max┬░

Difficulty

FATMAP difficulty grade

Extreme

Description

## Approach # 1h30 to 2h !!! Since the summer of 2016, the access ladders to Flammes de Pierre and the Charpoua refuge located opposite Montenvers have been dismantled. From Montenvers, go down the ladders and cross the Mer de Glace towards the Flammes de Pierre ridge, on the S side.

Three lengths were equipped by pouring S over the moraine, just above the first ice blades, to allow access to the balcony trail: L#1 | 4 | 4 | 30 m L#2 | 4 | 4 | 30 m L#3 | 3+ | 45 m These three lengths descend in 2 abseils of 50 m and a abseil of 10 m from R3. More information and diagrams on the Chamoniarde's website] (http://www.chamoniarde.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Acc%C3%A8s-Charpoua-et-Flammes-de-Pierre.pdf). Once you reach the balcony path, follow it in the direction of ESE (towards the Charpoua glacier). Leave the trail when it crosses a small stone quarry just before the right moraine of the Charpoua glacier and go straight up the grassy slopes for about 50 metres towards the large face.

You should see on your left a small trio of metal piles (difficult to see from below). Head towards the piles.

From there, go up grassy turns diagonally right for 30 m to come to rest on the wall. The start of the track is then 30 m to the left following the foot of the wall - cairn and artificial lunula in place, a spit difficult to see at the start (see [[images/295975|photo]). ## Track # 4 at 5am L#1 |6a| |This length is also the crux of the track with a ball step on spits (well protected).

Follow a crack, then join the slab on the left until you reach the relay. L#2 |5c| |Beautiful fine crack, hard at the exit. L#3 |5c| |Right above, direct passage from a small overhang. L#4 |4c| | A little to the right, spit at the beginning then straight above, relay on a terrace. L#5 |2| 70 m| Walk to the left of a gendarme on large boulders, climb towards the dihedral visible from the right, relay on a spoiler with rope.

L4 and L5 can be combined with a long stretched rope length. L#6 |5c| |Magnificent length in a very aesthetic dihedral with double crack, relay at a breach, spoiler equipped with a strap + lunula and small link L#7 |5c| 55 m| Easily go around the gendarme from the left (you can also climb on the wire and do a small rappel), attack left for 10 m then pass to the right of the edge to follow a crack.

55 m from R#6, an intermediate relay can be made at the bottom of the crack to limit the draft (spit + jammer). L#8 |5a| 35 m |Sur le fil, un pas de dalle magnifique (spits), then arrive at the foot of the slabs (spit) which we go up on the left until under an overhanging bastion, relay on jammers / spoiler. L#9 |5c | | | Go around under the overhang to the right, piton, go up through steep cracks on the S, spit, finish with a double crack on the top slab.

Relay at the top of the gendarme. L#~ From R#9, you can abseil down into [[routes/456532|La Reprise]]. L#10 | | | | | 5 m before the relay, descend a crack to bypass the 2 gendarmes to reach the breach before the new slab (spout). L#11-12 | | | | | Go up on the edge thread, several spits.

Relay on the Charpoua side. ## Descent # 1h - 1h30 for reminders In the track from R12 then in 8 abseils (some are short) from the summit of R9 in a dihedral wave in the middle, the abseils naturally follow each other to the right and follow the track "La reprise"".

These reminders take you back to the moraine of the Charpoua glacier.

60 m ropes are required to use the spittooned relays of La Reprise, but intermediate relays on pitons allow to pass with 50 m. - Abseiling descent from R4 into the track. - Exhaust between R4 and R5 on the left (one abseil + grassy turns)<br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence._