Description

## Approach From the Pont St Charles car park, follow the path to the [[waypoints/104057|Pariond refuge]].

Leave it at the first flat (10/15min), at the level of the signs reminding the rules of the national park, to follow a steep but well traced path to the left that goes up the Pentes des Cavales.

We end up at a small pass (possible snow), at the entrance of the Tenn de Rhème, a vast grassy flatland.

Cross it, then go up blocks to the left, pass a marsh area and go up the next gravel pit.

The pillar can be seen very well, to the right of a large gorge running across the face, the attack is located on a terrace on a kidney (it is the only grassy area above the screes), to the left of a steep snow corridor leading to the turn at R2.

One spit at eye level with a cord, another higher. ## Track The track is equipped with spits every 5 to 10 m, the rock lends itself well to jammers and friends. All the relays are on two spits connected by cords on good terraces. L#1 | 6a | | | | Expo, a little hard when cold but by taking points to the left it goes very well. L#2 | 5 | | | | | Medium rock, but easy.

Relay on chain. L#~ Cross a scree area, aiming a little to the left at a few rocks that detach from the face, under an obvious black area, starting in white rock, a spit at the bottom and a red arrow faded at the attack. L#3 | 5b | | | | | Attack a little steep, then lies down, leave well to the left after 25 meters.

Comfort relay. L#4 | 4c | | | | | Right above, easy and obvious. L#5 | 5b | | | | Splendid length quite steep, good and beautiful rock.

Comfort air relay. L#6 | 5c | | | | Splendid dihedral, L#7 | 4c | | | | | We arrive on a flat, bordered on the right by a rather deep corridor. L#8 | 5b | | | | Bypass the relay block from the right, go up a few steps and finish with a dihedral on the left, up to a small gap, it is worth crossing immediately under the next length. L#~ Cross 10 m to the left. L#9 | 5b | | | | Long length supported at the start. L#10 | 5a | | | | | Connects to the next length without problem. L#11 | 4c | | | | Very easy and short. L#~ Peak of the 1^errejects. L#12 | 3 | | | | | Go down the edge to the left at the bottom of a breach, you can couple with the following length L#13 | 5c | | | | Re-assemble the slab in front, under a roof, bypass the roof to the left (nice aerial step), recover, relay on a beautiful terrace, two spits L#14 | 5c | | | | Up the physical dihedral above, very well equipped, blocks a little medium. L#15 | 5b | | | | Go up a beautiful dihedral not obvious and fine on the feet, then cross well to the left. L#16 | 5c | | | | | A step at the beginning, rather high holds to look for.

Then turn left and come back right.

Strange length and exposure. L#17 | A0/5c | | | | A little hard at first, you can use the point (cord in place), then straight ahead: superb length. L#18 | 5b | | | | Cross to the right and then right above: splendid finale. L#~ From R#, follow the ridge first by returning to the left and then at best to an antecime, cross a piece of glacier and go up the last slopes to the top. ## Descent # 2 possibilities #### Through the Glacier of Rhêmes Calabria Set foot on the glacier, descend it by a large bend turning to the right to pass well below the kidney rock on the right of the summit, and climb up to the obvious pass of Rhême Calabre, on the right of the glacial flat (1h). Cross the pass, go down its S side and find the trail of ascent. #### By the throat # to recommend, fast and efficient Take a left turn until you reach the top of the glacier circus.

Go down the scree on the ridge to the left (tracks) until you reach the central snow slopes and then down to the grassy flat at 2850 m.

From there, go well to the left following the cliff and the cairns. We arrive at a return anchor, lower it down (50 m or 2×25 m).

Then go down the gorge and then the scree and join the ascent path. ###### Variant This abseiling can be avoided by a delicate path in the turns: from the abseiling location, descend right obliquely for 300 m, grass/slab slopes.

Join a cairn.

Join another cairn 30 m below on the left (bar to cross, can be bypassed on the right).

Go down a grassy corridor that ends in a 5 m chimney to be destacked (3b).

Follow a grassy turn to the left, it goes up 10 m and then crosses again until the scree.<br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence._