Statistics

1,046

m

1,143

m

41

max°

Difficulty

FATMAP difficulty grade

Severe

Description

## Approach # 2h From the 1834 m pin, aim full W to pass the left bank of the Rave creek under point 2033.

Possible start from the Col de la Madeleine, faster and better marked out. Then go up NW la combe de la Rave always left bank, go under the Pointe du Rozet, leave the buttresses of the Tour de la Flachère on your left hand (some cairns).

We can see the top and the terminal red slab from the Col de la Madeleine. Engage in the valley until you come to rest on the S side of the Grand Pic (snowy at the beginning of the season, slope at 35° at the end). ## Track The climb starts on the left side of the face, 30 m after having started to climb the neve/blue on the right, we start 20 m to the left of the beginning of a ramp which comes to rest under a large red slab (just below the top) clearly visible from below.

Spit clearly visible. L# | 5b | Stiff wall at the beginning but good bins, first spit at 5 m, not very visible from below, remains in 4b. L# | 5c | Small crossing on the right then steep slab (a step of 5c then 5a) very fine, then 4b on the spur. L# | 5c | Stiff at the start (a step of 5c) then 4c. L# | 5b | Beautiful 45 m length in IV with a V step at the top. L# | 4c | Short 4c in slab, then fractured rock, a little fart on the top. L# | 6a | The most beautiful, 5c/6a over 5 m on the beautiful red slab visible from below. L# | 3b | No equipment in place, easy terrain to reach the top (2min). ## Descent 2 possibilities : #### Through the normal channels The most aesthetic.

First descend on a stony ramp at the NW of the summit (cairns) then on the Celliers glacier and the combe de la Valette (a little stop to get back to the car).

Useful ice axe, crampons if snow is hard.

Be careful, descent by the rather dangerous and tedious glacier at the end of summer (many rock falls).

To avoid going down to the road (if cars are scarce!), it is possible around 2000 m to turn off in the SE direction and walk on a level curve in order to recover a path, sometimes marked red/white, sometimes red/orange (in red dotted lines on the IGN map), which goes up to the foot of the Biettaz and leads to the Col de la Madeleine. #### Reminders in the track Relay 2 spits with strap (check condition), connected points and quick links, last unnecessary recall (left hand ramp de-escalation)<br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence._