Nice circuit in good rock, little maintained but long. The descent through the normal way is fast but very exposed to seracs, the descent through the SE edge is a very nice alternative, safe and aesthetic. The Almagellerhütte offers then the possibility to combine with beautiful itineraries (Portjengrat and Dri Hörnli above all).


Analysing terrain data









The exposure grade does not take into account objective hazards (stone fall, seracs, etc) but only the consequences of the skier falling.

Low Exposure: The route is well protected or easy enough that protection is not required.

Medium Exposure: The route features some exposed and/or difficult to protect sections.

High Exposure: Much of the route is difficult to protect and a fall could be disastrous at certain points.

Extreme Exposure: The majority of the route is "no fall" terrain.


##Access * From Bergrestaurant Hohsaas (3140 m), follow the marked path that climbs towards the E along the Geissrücken.

Towards 3200 m for the path; pulling the easiest on the stones (tracks, milestones), avoid the upper part of the Geissrücken on the right (slope S).

reach the glacier about 3300 m and, passing through a little marked pass, reach the Hohlaubgletscher.

pass the rocky elevation that leaves the elevation 3572m (milestone, you see little at night) and, through an ascending crossing towards the NE, reach the Lagginjoch (3499 m, last meters in unstable rock).

*1 h.* * From Weissmieshütte (2726 m), follow the path that leads to Hohsaas up to 3000 m.

From there, go up in direction E in the stones (tracks) until you reach the Holaubgletscher, which we go back to the easiest (cracks) to the Lagginjoch (3499 m, last meters in unstable rock).

*2h* [img=452015 right/] ##Arista N # 4-5 h From the Lagginjoch follow the edge remaining *more on the edge*.

the poorly maintained start leads to the plate in 4, protected at its foot by a good python.

un-equipped on 14/07/18 but easy to protect in a fissure 1 m to the right of the edge.

we arrive then without difficulty to a antecima from which the edge becomes sharper, the climbing becomes more maintained (many steps from III to III+).

To follow the edge to the easiest or to avoid some tooth, several dexterities equipped with rings (useless rappels).

Crampon prints let you know where to pass. we arrive at the snowy ridge that we continue without difficulty until the summit. ##Descent we arrive at Hohsaas in 1 h 20 by [[routes/45557|normal road]] of the Weissmies ; the descent is very expeusta to falls of serac in its low part.

it is safer and aesthetic to cross in the Almagellerhütte by [edge SE]( (2-3 h)<br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike]( licence._