FATMAP difficulty grade



[img=176898 right]VN and edge SW de l'Évêque[/img] ## Access Reach the 3395 chair at the foot of the SW edge of l'Évêque : * From the Bouquetins shelter, cross the Haut Glacier d'Arolla in the direction of SW and pass near [ waypoints/176511|collado Collon]].

Then go back in the direction of the W and [[waypoints/145181|col de l'Évêque]].

then climb the SW on the snowy mound 3457 m and reach the foot of the ridge.

(Depending on the conditions, it is better to climb directly at the foot of the ridge from the S). * From the refuge Nacamuli-Collon, take direction NE to reach the Coll Collon.

the rest of the same access. * From the refuge of Vignettes, cross the glacier of Mont Collon in the direction of l'Évêque, then go up the slopes that lead to the height 3395 m. ## Itinerary Note: in the description below, the annotation "meeting" means a good place to mount the renaissance. From the chair (3395 m) at the foot of the SW ridge, negotiate the rocky edge bar going up a snow slope to the left (50 m) and reach the ridge at the base of the first ledge (terrace).

pass this ledge directly (40 m, III with 2 steps of IV, 1 python), sometimes remaining on the right.

when it is very snowy, we can avoid this ledge on the left, but snow is scarce.... after the ledge, the ridge becomes little inclined and with little stones mixed with snow : go up this little stone until a second ledge, called "orange ledge".

it forms a triangular face to the left of the ridge and lets adivainr a corridor behind its left edge.

go up a dihedral in the left part of the face (10 m, III+), that arrives at a cornice that we follow to the left only on 5 m.

take the corridor that climbs to the right (III) in the direction of the ridge.

when this corridor hits vertical rocks (meeting), pull up on the right by vertical rocks but with dams (III) to reach the ridge.

follow it over 10 m until it tumbles (III, meeting, 1 fisureo stuck in the ground) at the foot of the third ledge.

we can also follow the corridor to the foot of the third ledge, but it is more difficult (tape, IV). Contour the base of the third shoulder to the right by easy rocks over 10 m, then two alternatives are presented: 1) Go up to the first dihedral on the left.

after 5 m of climbing (III+), draw on the right to an embedded block (IV).

then continue in the dihedral on 5 m (III+) until you hit under a collapse.

To outline the collapse by a diagonal to the left (1 step of IV, 1 python), to arrive at the edge (III+) that we follow on 10 m up to a platform (meeting). 2) follow the easy rocks to the right after the first dihedral to reach the base of a second dihedral.

Go up this dihedral (III) until you come up against a roof.

Exit under the roof on the left (IV, exposed, 1 python) up to a platform (meeting).

From there, to the edge or by scaling the fractured plate directly above (IV), or by an easy cornice diagonally to the left. They follow 50 m not so diíicil (II-III) in the edge that this little marked here, up to the foot of the 4° highlight (meeting).

sortearlo by the right on 3 m, then climb it by vertical rocks full of dams (III-III+). continue on the edge, a little lying down, for 50 m on a rock easy but unstable (II, many blocks put) until the 5th highlight.

climb it on the right (III+).

then the edge is well marked and aerial on 40 m : pass a shaver (5 m) and continue on the edge (III+, a step of IV) by a beautiful climb on good rock. there is still 50 m of easy rock (II-III) along the edge that is not so marked, to reach the summit. ## Descent Destrepar 100 m towards the W until the glacier, that I diminish a lot.

The first snow slope may be icy at the bottom.

then go down the [[routes/54645|regular way]].<br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike]( licence._