Statistics

6

m

1,342

m

33

max°

Difficulty

FATMAP difficulty grade

Moderate

Description

[img=826025 right]Roche de la Muzelle: Normal track and Durdan corridor[/img] [img=826024 left]Roche de la Muzelle: Normal track and Durdan corridor[/img] ##Approach From[waypoints/104098|refuge de la Muzelle], follow the path that climbs on the ridge above the refuge.

At the end of it, turn left to enter the valley of the Glacier de la Muzelle.

Depending on the snow conditions, 3 possibilities: - After a few rocky steps, reach the snow and climb a first steep slope to reach a flat part of the glacier that you follow until you reach the bottom of the [[waypoints/37684|Col Jean Martin]] (3257 m). - When the snow is gone, a rocky route is marked with small blue dots on the side of the rocky ridge that borders the right side (up) of the glacier.

Do not climb to the obvious breach (around 2650 m), but stay on the side to climb "in a sling" up to the ridge, which allows you to get a foothold on the glacier. - It is possible to climb up to the top of the ridge that borders the left bank of the glacier by following its line.

The few climbing steps present are homogeneous compared to the difficulty of the rest of the route.

This itinerary seems more suitable than the one following the blue points. ##Track Cross the rimaye and reach the pass by a steeper slope (40°). Find a wide and uncomfortable turn on the slope that dominates the climbing corridor and the glacier of La Muzelle.

(it is possible to go up behind a gendarme to an obvious mailbox, in order to get a foothold on the turn).

The turn is marked by several spits and allows you to cross a first shoulder (Option: rather than going around the shoulder, it is interesting to go straight up to the left of the spur for 30 m - a step of IV, difficult to protect, 1 useful friend - and reach the edge).

Continue to cross upwards to get a foothold in a corridor that you go up at the beginning before taking a vague spur on its left bank.

This whole part is not very difficult but in extremely bad "rock".

We reach the ridge ridge, much healthier, which we follow on the wire to the main summit easily crossing several anthems. ##Descending Same route as the ascent. Possible reminder to join Col Jean Martin: go down the ridge that dominates the pass to a small gap, you can then see the straps.

There are 2 lines, prefer the one on the right if there are ropes underneath.<br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence._