FATMAP difficulty grade
## Approach # #### From La Bérarde # [[roads/181825|access to the S side from La Bérarde]] : 3am - 4am At the top right of the circus of scree and snow located under the S side of Le Rouget, we see a huge block stuck at the foot of a corridor; the track starts from there. #### From the Soreiller refuge Consult the topo of the[routes/54996/fr|Pillar of Serenity]].
Go down to the circus under the S side and then go up to the right until you reach the huge stuck block. ## General line Four to five lengths in slab and then on a secondary pillar lead to the foot of the right edge of the Murielle Tower.
We go up the pillar by an obvious dihedral then a long and superb length in ascending crossing to the left leads to the end of the difficulties. ## Route # 7h Attack below the trapped block by an obvious crack in the right side of the wire (or start just below the trapped block, slightly exposed towards the middle of the length).
Continue straight above, climb a slab scratched by a crack (4c with a step 5b) then reach an easy area from where you can guess a corridor embedded on the left.
Continue by the spur above, still on the left bank of this corridor, a first steep length in 4c/5a then a second not so steep a little to the right of the line.
Relay at the level of a small cairn built on the wire. Cross the incised corridor to reach the foot of an obvious dihedral on the left side of the wire.
By two lengths of 50 m, climb this dihedral to a breach, 4c and 5a supported with a marked step of 5b, 3 peaks.
Crossing in ascent on the left until the left thread of the tower then go up right until the top, 4b, 60 m, exceptional.
Continue along an obvious ridge that leads to ridge E of the Tête du Rouget, a few steps of 3. ## Descent There are several possibilities: - By the[[roads/181740|N ridge then the right bank of corridor W]] : the most classic, allows to return to the refuge, no mandatory reminder (1 to 3 useful). - By the[[roads/56079|SW ridge]]: steeper than the N ridge but allowing to return to the top of the access corridor to the S side, and to possibly recover the crampons and ice axes. - By the[[roads/55097|E ridge and Arena glacier]]: allows you to reach La Bérarde or Le Chatelleret; many possible variants for the descent on this side.<br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence._