The crossing of the Aiguille d'Entrèves can be done in both directions, but it seems more logical in the SW >> NE direction (no IV on the way up).

Statistics

308

m

238

m

15

max°

Difficulty

FATMAP difficulty grade

Difficult

Description

[img=160675 right no_border no_legend/] [img=160676 right no_border no_legend/] ##Approach From the Torino refuge go in the direction of NW to the Torch Pass.

From there, go down towards the W and pass at the foot of the N face of the Aiguille de Toule.

Continue a little in the direction of W of the Tour Ronde, then go full S until you reach the Col d'Entrèves. ##Itinerary To get a foothold on the edge, very easy at first, passing sometimes on the E side, sometimes on the W side.

Just after a de-escalation in a small gap (bypassing the edge by the right is easier than de-escalation by the left.

But if you feel like it, the de-escalation is very nice), we go up the other side by a small step of III (located between 2 blades, we are in a large chimney).

The rest is more aerial: we stay on the edge of the ridge for 20-30 m with a de-escalation step protected with 2 spits.

Then, 5 m further on, a step of IV (relay on 2 spits unbound jute before, 1 strap in place to pull).

Relay 15 m further on, at the summit level. See also the topo of the[NE-SW crossing] (http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/54394/fr). #### Variant: Continue to the Aiguille de Toule by the gendarmes (AD, P3, 4c). After crossing Entrèves, continue along a snowy ridge until you reach the foot of the first gendarme. Attack from the right, short crossing then chimney, we reach the ridge (4c).

Good relay after an air crossing under or on a small gendarme. Continue the edge generally under its wire or around the right hand.

Two de-escalations or reminders (straps in place) to bypass impassable passages. We reach the western pass of Toule, three solutions: a) Reach the summit by the snow slope W. b) Reach the top directly, not recommended, bad steep rock. c) Go around by a slope turn E to return to the normal lane. Descent by the normal Toule route. ##Descending From the top, we descend through a system of cracks that are not very inclined, but not always obvious to protect (usefulness of the jammers, possibility of doing 2-3 abseiling courses (30 m max) to avoid them, 1 spit per abseil).

Then we finish with easy mixed terrain, and we reach the snow slope by a few broken rocks facing the Aiguille de Toule (end of the ridge). The climb track is reached by descending NE (slope at 35-40°) towards the foot of the Aiguille de Toule.<br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence._