FATMAP difficulty grade



Ascent: La Pointe des Cinéaste is the highest point of an S-N comb with 9 points.

The traverse of the Cinéastes is a very beautiful ridge route with varied climbing on normally good rocks.

You can make it from the hut in half a day, but it is worth it to bring some time, as the view to the glacier basin of Glacier Blanc and the N-walls of Glacier Noir is fantastic. From the flat area behind the Glacier Blanc hut, take the path towards the Monêtier Pass (O) up to about 2700m.

Turn left (N) and climb the frontal and then lateral moraine of the Glacier de la Pyramide under the W side of the Pointe des Cinéastes.

At the extreme north end you reach the large area of horizontal bands that line the entire W-wall at approx.


Follow these bands southwards to the foot of the channel from the first embrasure (north of the first peak).

Just climb these up to the embrasure.

Follow the ridge edge (III+) to the second point and descend into the second embrasure.

Swing over a band to the O side and ascend over a formation of cracks diagonally from left to right (40m, III and IV) to submit a stand about ten meters in front of a typical roof (hook).

Get to the roof, bypass it from the left (exposed III+) and climb the following intersection (15 m in III) to the top of the third peak.

To reach the third ridge, climb the fourth peak over the edge of the ridge (III), from which you abseil for 15m.

The fifth point and the sixth point, which represents the highest point, are then climbed over the edge of the ridge without any problems.

You finish this traverse classically at the sixth point, but you can climb to the last point.

Duration from the Glacier Blanc hut to the sixth peak: 3 to 4 hours. Variants: - You can reach the first peak and the first embrasure via the S-ridge (Chaud variant).

- From the first embrasure, one can follow a band on the W side; one thus arrives at the ridge above a large rock shed (III).

- From the second embrasure to the third point you can follow the ridge edge (IV+/V, exposed).

- The fourth tip can easily be bypassed by ribbons on the W side. References: - Guide du Haut Dauphiné, massif des Écrins, Volume 2, GHM and F.

Labande, Publisher: Editions de l'Envol, Description pp.

120, 123, 124 and 125, Photos pp.

121 and 122 - Le massif des Écrins, les 100 plus belles courses, G.

Rébuffat, Publisher: Editions Denoël, pp.

100 and 101. Descent: From the sixth peak, rope down to the following embrasure over 20m N-side; then descend the channel from brittle rock O-side (twice 25m abseiling possible) to the scree on the O-side.

One reaches the former moraines of the Tuckett glacier, which one follows up to the path leading to the hut.

Duration from the sixth peak to the Glacier Blanc hut: 1 to 2 hours. Descent variant: Climb the seventh peak on the W side from the sixth ridge; then traverse the eighth and ninth up to a ridge from which one descends on the SO side to the scree and firn slopes in the east of the Cinéastes.<br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike]( licence._