FATMAP difficulty grade



Ascent: It is an ascent of moderate difficulty on a very varied terrain (slabs, intersections, airy ridges) and on a fundamentally safe rock.

The possible combinations with the Aiguille Centrale des Soreiller from the W-Pass of the same name can form stretches of a certain size, with magnificent views of the small valley of the "Vallon de la Selle".

There are several ways to get there - most of the time you get in at the bottom of the ridge or higher - at the foot of the first steep upswing. From the Soreiller hut to the west, traverse an area with large boulders leading to a simple steep rock slope, over which you can cross the ridge made up of the last southwest walls of Dibona (visible signal from the hut).

Over the scree slopes (path and stonemen) to the Firnfeld from the W-Pass of Soreiller.

To get to the foot of the S ridge, traverse on sight over a zone with large boulders and start slightly westwards with rock climbing at approx.


One climbs a few easy ups and downs as best as possible on the terrain (II) to reach where the ridge becomes noticeably steeper (wide terrace at the foot of a steep plate).

It is also possible to get there via a firn field on the Mulde from the W-Pass of Soreiller up to approx.

2950/3000m depending on the snow height, then climb an SO-orientated belt system (tracks, stonemasons) leading into a scree zone, which climbs as far as possible towards the S ridge of the western needle of Soreiller. Up the plate almost vertically to reach a wide oblique band to the right (II/III).

On the band a little to the right and over a steep passage first straight ahead, then in Traverse to the left under an overhang in an intersection of grey rock; this up (III, the rock demands concentration).

Continue as close as possible to the ridge or slightly below over sometimes airy spots.

(II/III) Traverse under the tip of the upswing over bands on the W side.

Cross a small saddle to get a foothold further down to the left at glacier cut slabs.

One is now under a second upswing, which one climbs without problems, first over the ridge, then - as soon as this becomes steeper - over an initially light band system on the W-side.

These bands are replaced by a steeper terrain, which is traversed descending to another embrasure (II/III, good protection possibilities).

You can also climb to the top of the upswing and abseil down to this embrasure over 25m (abseiling loop available).

The following glacial plates up - you reach an area of large blocks that form a terrace under the summit; you reach the summit over a last short, steep passage (2.5 to 3 hours). References: ""Guide du Haut Dauphiné, massif des Écrins""" Volume 1 by F.

Labande, Publisher: Editions de l'Envol.

"Le massif des Écrins, les 100 plus belles courses et randonnées", by G.

Rebuffat, published by Editions Denoël. Descent: Descend a few metres from the summit on the S side; you come across a band that you follow until you reach the O ridge; descend over it.

Stay on the ridge or slightly below on the Soreiller side.

According to the terrain, continue as far as possible over ridge and slab passages (the path requires attention, stonemasons).

At the bottom of the ridge, a typical passage with a letterbox handle leads over a short but steep climb to the W-Pass of Soreiller (1 hour). Descend the south side over sometimes unstable terrain and gain a foothold further down on the firn field or the scree slope.

Continue to the right to the ribbon system under the SO side of the S ridge of the Aiguille Occidentale leading to the Firnfeld.

This down to the ascent route (45 min to 1 hour)<br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike]( licence._