FATMAP difficulty grade
## Approach There are two possible access points: - From the Soreiller refuge: starting straight horizontally and barely below from the refuge, or by bypassing the first slabs from above, then by a long slightly ascending crossing in screes or snowfalls depending on the season, reach the leftmost breach at the foot of the [[roads/54167/fr|Plaque Route]].
(SW edge); a stick is used to identify the bottom gap.
In 3 abseils equipped on spits (2 of 50 m, 1 of 30 m) in a steeped lane, win a turn that we follow first slightly downwards and then upwards.
The track starts at the foot of the Girod Spur, which borders the right side on a convenient turn.
Allow 2h30. - From La Bérarde in 4 hours: [[roads/181825|access to the S side from La Bérarde]]. ## Track # 4 at 5am from the attack tack The departure is common with[routes/55007/fr|Le Trésor de Rackham le Rouget]] (dowels, slightly to the left). L# | 5c | 45 m | 6g | From the foot of the corridor, go up the weak line obliquely to the left (5g).
At Rackham's first relay (dowel + concrete), cross well to the left for about 10 m above the overhangs, then go straight up towards the obvious line of weakness (dihedral).
R# dihedral foot (2p). L# | 5c | 30 m | | | Cross the dihedral above.
R# on a good terrace. L# | 6a | 30 m | | | Climb an open dihedral above (6a peaks).
Exit in slight ascent to the left on a turn.
R# well left on spoiler. L# | 5a | 45 m | 2p | Return to the plumbing of the previous dihedral and climb straight for 15-20 m : first a short fissure-flute (6 m to the right of the good spoilers), then a dihedral to the right of the slab (2p).
Cross straight right under this slab into an obvious cracked ramp (5a).
R# on a small stony turn. L# | 5b |30 m | 1p | Climb a small dihedral clearly visible on the right along a small red pillar and then the wall that follows (5b, 1p before an engaged section).
R# on a good block. L# | 4c | 35 m | | | Pass a stiff wall through good cracks.
R# (1 piton + 1 cord) L# | 4c | 40 m | | | Pass to the right of a characteristic hole.
R# a few meters higher. L# | 4c | | | 1p | Continue in right ascent then straight ahead until under the roofs (1p), and cross to the right by a descending step to reach a dihedral.
R# at the foot of the dihedral (1p + a strap on a spoiler on the right). L# | 4c | | | 2p | Continue either by the dihedral that starts on the right of this strap (2p), or by the one directly above (1c, 1p).
Rackham's R# on the right (2g + chain). L# | 4b | | | | | Go up to the top as easily as possible, avoiding to reach the spur on the left too early.
4b then 3b then 2, a few studs in the red slab under the top. [img=140749]Schema[/img] [img=561227 /] ## Descent There are several possibilities: - By the[[roads/181740|N ridge then the right bank of corridor W]] : the most classic, allows to return to the refuge, no mandatory reminder (1 to 3 useful). - By the[[roads/56079|SW ridge]]: steeper than the N ridge but allowing to return to the top of the access corridor to the S side, and to possibly recover the crampons and ice axes. - By the[[roads/55097|E ridge and Arena glacier]]: allows you to reach La Bérarde or Le Chatelleret; many possible variants for the descent on this side.<br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence._