A classic ridge, made of very good rock

Statistics

985

m

1,504

m

29

max°

Difficulty

FATMAP difficulty grade

Severe

Description

[img=283711 right /] ## Approach #### From the refuge of the [[waypoints/104132|Châtelleret]] # 1h30 Follow the path on the left bank which climbs to the Col du Clot des Cavales.

Cross the scree from the collar in their lower part to join the attack on the S flank at the base of the 1<sup>er</sup>jump. #### From the refuge of the [[waypoints/104148|Pavé]] # 1 hour of ascent and 1 hour of descent Climb to the[roads/894272|Brèche du Grand Dièdre]]] (around 3170 m) E of the Col du Clot des Cavales, 150 m from the foot of Pic N.

4 abseils of 25 m (beware the first one is exactly 25 m) on spits and links allow access to a wide turn which then easily leads to the foot of the SW face. ## Track # 4 at 5am By an easy climb, reach the wire.

Attack the edge; first easy, then quickly straightening up to reach the foot of fluted slabs. #### First jump Go up these fluted slabs rather to the right (III+), towards an area of grey rocks (trace of contemporary landslide).

Relay 2 pitons on a terrace. Reach this grey rock area by a slab on the right (III).

Relay 2 peaks at the foot of a small overhang. Pass the small overhang and continue above in the crack.

A little higher up, turn left under a large (steep) block.

We end up with a small gap (V-, peaks).

Relay on béquet. Take a wide ramp inclined on the left side for 10 to 15 m then join the line through cracked rock, IV+/V.

Relay 1 piton + keg. Climb a short compact slab and a mini overhang (5b delicate but with 3 well placed pitons, goes to A0), and continue to join the wire. Continue on the thread, first climbing then horizontal (set of III, rather aesthetic).

A little before the 2nd jump, go around a gendarme on the right and easily reach the foot of the second jump.

200 m of developed. #### Second jump 15 m to the right of the wire, locate grooves with pitons.

Go up straight for 30-40 m these grooves (IV+, pitons).

Relay 2 pitons on a small terrace. Go up a few metres above (1 piton), then cross to the left to reach a chimney leading to the wire (IV). Continue above to climb up the left side of the ridge a fine dihedral oblique to the left (pitons), then cross a few meters to the right to join a relay 2 pitons on a terrace (pitons).

IV+ stiff.

(it is also possible to pass straight side through grooves). Turn right to join the thread (III+). Then continue towards the top, first a little bit more climbing and then from - to - to - steep (you cross 1 or 2 peaks).

Ends in a stony corridor rather to the left.

III max ## Descent The descent is made via[[roads/54362|S-ridge (normal track)]]. Go down 5-10 m in a corridor facing W (to the left of the one you come from).

Locate a 1<sup>er</sup>return relay (spits with cord) on the right. R# | 30 m | Pull a little to the left R# | 30 m (stack) | In slabs R# | 40 m | Pull right to reach a wide turn. Follow the turn and then de-escalate by pulling to the left to reach a marked breach on ridge S (one step to reach the breach).

A 40-50 m abseiling distance according to snow conditions (strap+spit) on the paved side allows to reach the bottom of the S ridge. #### Descent at Le Châtelleret From the foot of ridge S, on the Pavé side, follow the ridge in the direction of the S. ###### By the [[routes/894272|reminders of the Great Dihedral]] Reach the breach overlooking the Grand Dièdre on the Etançons side.

The first relay is slightly to the right, 1 m below (2 spits, chain). In 2 rappels of 40 m or 4 of 25 m (beware the 1<sup>er</sup> makes pile 25 m), reach clearly visible turns on the right bank.

Go down to the right and join a path that leads to the foot of the SW face.

By a large stone quarryman join the path of the Col du Clot des Cavales. ###### Through the Col du Clot des Cavales Not recommended when lane W is cleared of snow.<br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence._