Description

## Access to the Monzino refuge # 2h - 2h30 / 1000 m Departure from Les Freiney - Chalet du Miage, in Val Veni (1590 m, large car park next to the river).

From there, it is easy to cross the river (bridges) towards [[waypoints/128852| Monzino refuge]]. !!! Attention: some topos, as well as the IGN map "St-Gervais Massif du Mont Blanc", indicate that it is possible to cross the river higher, towards the end of the road from Val Veni to Cantine de Visaille (1660 m)...

There are no more bridges and it is impossible in summer to cross the river on foot Ascent to the Monzino refuge by a steep path crossing 2 rocky bars and including an easy via ferrata. ## Access to the Bivouac Eccles #### By the 1^re part of the ridge # 7h / 1300 m *Itinerary used during the full route of the Innominata Ridge. From the refuge, continue in a stone quarry to the Châtelet glacier, which is climbed 100 m up to a low rocky bar (1 hour). Cross this bar and continue in the stands, aiming at the characteristic gendarme of the SW ridge, which is approached by a crack-dihedral in IV and which is bypassed on the Châtelet side, then continue as best as possible in front of W in a more than doubtful rock until the ridge (IV, 2h30). Go up this ridge to the top of the[[waypoints/40658|Innominata]].

(3750 m, 1h30). Go down by 3 abseils to the Col du Fréney, cross the fine ridge and then go down 30 m on the glacial plateau.

Cross it, cross the rim, then climb steep slopes to reach the[waypoints/103943|Bivouac Eccles]] (3850 m, 2h, **attention incorrectly positioned on IGN**). #### By direct access # 4-5h / 1260 m From[waypoints/128852|Refuge Monzino], continue in a scree block to the Glacier du Châtelet. Turn left to join the Glacier du Brouillard and go up to the Col du Fréney (beware of the many crevasses). From the pass, climb up towards Pointe Eccles by a sustained snow slope (often made of ice) to a flat spot.

Turn left on a mixed terrain, and reach the bivouac. ## Bivouac Eccles → Mont Blanc (2^depart of the ridge) # 7-10h / 1000 m [img=539126 right/] #### Bivouac Eccles → Col Eccles # 1h30 - 2h / 150 m 2 solutions : 1.

In good snow conditions, look for a rappel to descend a slope 50 m behind the old bivouac (the rimaye) to get a foothold on the glacier du Brouillard which you climb up to Col Eccles (45°).

(1h30, more if not in conditions!) 2.

Otherwise go up the SW ridge towards Pointe Eccles: go up towards a large wooden stick on the ridge, then follow the ridge until you reach a small jump under the top.

The jump can be bypassed from the left (Foggy side, short abseiling) or through a crack on the right (Frêney side, 4b).

Reach Pointe Eccles (4050 m). By a rappel to reach the snowy ridge of Col Eccles.

(2h) #### Eccles Pass → Fog Ridge # 4-6h / 650 m Then stay on the edge line until the first steep jump which is crossed by 3-4 supported lengths (an obvious chimney dihedral of 20 m with a step of 5b at the exit (relay, string), then under a large block then on the spur line.

4 and 3, 2h). We arrive at a small snowy ridge (sometimes snow blade) located under a huge and smooth protogine gendarme (sometimes rocky).

Go around the gendarme from the left and overcome a steep jump by 2 short lengths (3-4, wobbly) towards the large snow/ice corridor located between the Innominata and the secondary ridge on the left.

Cross it quickly to the left around 4250 m (watch out for rock falls) and reach a rocky coast (1h30). Go up this hill (large blocks) then turn left to a narrow snow/ice ramp (at the foot of an overhanging red tower) which goes to the left and leads to the edge of Pointe Louis Amédée, which is fully ascended (4450 m, 3-4, 2h30).

From this point, go up the mixed ice slopes to the tip (4650 m, 50°). #### Fog Ridge → Summit # 1h30 - 2h / 160 m Finally, follow the rocky ridge then snowy and new rocky (climb the big rocky jump to the right).

Mont Blanc de Courmayeur can be avoided by a crossing with an obvious flank above the SW face (35°, ice or snow, beware of the plates).

Finally reach Mont Blanc. ## Descent To your choice: - By the[[roads/53781|Bosses Ridge]]] → Refuge du Goûter → Les Houches. - By the[roads/53788|3 Mont Blancs]] → Aiguille du Midi cable car → Chamonix. - By the[routes/54151|Route des Aiguilles Grises]] (Italian normal route) → Gonella refuge (chaotic glacier at the end of the season) → Val Veni.<br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence._