Beautiful route of edge in an irreproachable Gneiss, climbing little diíicil but maintained in a beautiful environment. not to despise the bajada !

Statistics

1,323

m

2,538

m

34

max°

Difficulty

FATMAP difficulty grade

Severe

Description

[img=176687 right]Zinalrothorn - Rothorngrat depuis Mountet[/img] ## Access to the Rothornjoch from the Grand Mountet shelter From the hut, take the path in the moraine and go up to the glacier Mountet that we take about 3200 m.

Go up again direction NE until 3300 m then oblique to the right in a landing in direction of the Pointe du Mountet 3877 m.

after 500 m of ascending crossing, go up again a wall with cracks then a glen on the right of the height 3607 m, which leads to the rimaya under a tongue of ice well visible. pass the rimaya in general to the right (to by a rocky ledge) and go up the snow corridor or the rocks to the right of the ice tongue at the ridge towards 3850 m.

(care to the falls of stones...) ## Rothorngrat take the first easy edge that leads to the foot of the first gendarme that we easily climb (III).

the second gendarme is passed directly, then to the left through a fissure that leads to the edge.

A third shoulder leads to a gap at the feet of a large vertical and placous shoulder composed of several gendarmes. Mount them on the edge or something Mountet slope (set of III+/IV). We arrived at a landing at the foot of the "Grand Gendarme", two alternatives: - sortir in a feixeta (ice) side W and follow the gendarme below.

alternative not recommended (ice, medium rock). - start straight on the edge by a small plate until a meeting (2 pythons) and go out to the right to go up (aerial !) leaves (IV+) on 10 m, meeting with block on the edge. Since then : cross to the right to end in a plate by which we arrive at the edge o go straight ahead but an apcla (IV, un spit) elugo take eun dihedral left (III+) that allows you to reach the edge. To follow the somital crest of that gendarme remaining side Mountet and to cross a gendarme bifide in the edge or slope Mountet, up to the breach of corridor of the normal way (Gabel). From the breccia, go up large blocks on the edge (many ribbons) then go through a window on the left to go up the Biner Plaques (equipped with platelets and sealed "barres à mines") (often frozen) and reach the edge of the ridge. Follow the fine edge to the summit, avoiding the 1<sup>er</sup> gendarme on the left and the second on the right. ## Descent The descent is made by [[routes/54494|the N ridge]] which leads to the grand Mountet hut. From the top, follow the edge of the ridge (easy, but can pose some problem if snowed, pythons to ensure - covered if snow) to the foot of the hill that we reach by a climb of 5 m. The descent of the monicle can be done either by dexterating (III, fractured plate) or rappelling (1x45 or 2×22 m, spit in meetings). A horizontal crossing on a cutting edge (La bourrique) leads to the foot of the Sphinx which we draw Mountet (2 spits) and which leads to the foot of the Rasoir (shaver). the shaver is passed well by the edge (small abseil to go down) or is drawn Mountet slope going down 6-7 m then in crossing towards the edge (very delicate if snowed!).

we follow the edge until the hill contouring a last gendarme (gendarme du déjeuner) by the right. From the hill go down the ridge that leads to Blanc de Moming, first rocks, then snowfall (sharp) that we left about 3800 m to reach the glacier Mountet. go down that rather right to the moraine and reach the hut.<br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence._