A very aesthetic and homogeneous edge course; it is a great classic of the Pyrenees.

Statistics

1,807

m

1,805

m

46

max°

Difficulty

FATMAP difficulty grade

Difficult

Description

##Approximation *La vispera :* From Gavarnie, follow the path up to the refuge of Espuguettes. You can sleep either in the refuge, or in the cabin of the Pailla that is just above, or bivouac in the [[images/180014| few possible places]].

A first site (2 squares) is about 2240 m, to 10 meters left bank of the river that descends of the nevero of the Pailla, to the aplomb of a big block in the middle of the tartera.

A second (4 sites or more) around 2400 m, above the waterfall: the slope of the tartera located on the left bank of the end of the nevero de la Pailla leads to a small hill and a short grassy area (no water).

The third is on the hill at the beginning of the ridge (without water). *Access :* arrive by more or less marked paths to the small glacier Pailla easy to know.

Go uphill to the right to reach the small valley that comes from the hill 2521 m where the road begins. ## Via The track follows the edge.

In general, you're slightly on the E side.

This edge is made up of several protrusions that each correspond to a length of rope.

Meetings are comfortable, and the most difficult steps do not pass the IV+. The first lengths are obvious, the closer you get to the edge, the more beautiful it is.

Notice from the beginning a more vertical protrusion in the middle of the ridge, called "le Grand Fronton" in the Ollivier guide.

"*It's a solid, triangular, unappetizing bastion.

When you get to the foot of that Grand Fronton, turn it by the E face, easier or by the edge to the right, more aesthetic. The following shoulder is climbed with an easy length on the edge.

At the end of the next length you have to go through 10 meters to the left along a horizontal cleft until a meeting with 2 pythons (?).

Continue obliquely to the right then the edge to a wide platform; climb a ramp to the left to avoid a vertical wall.

You can immediately return to the right then flip over a plunge (2 pythons), or climb a few steps with pebbles on top.

Raise two protrusions on the edge (IV then IV+) to flow into a less vertical zone.

Notice a chimney that borders the barrier of somital crashes and raise it.

You reach the somital ridge and through a good path, you easily reach the summit.

Beautiful view in the circus. ##Bajada Two alternatives : - reach the frozen lake, pass it on the left (cornsies), and climb the Brecha de Tuquerouye (refuge not guarded), go down slope N (snow corridor or tarteras, 40° at the beginning) in the circus of Estaubé, and climb the good path towards the Hourquette d'Alans, and finally go down to Gavarnie ; - [[routes/285688|por les Rochers Blancs, slope Gavarnie]] Faster but on steep and exposed terrain.

Avoid if there is a lot of snow.

There are red marks but you have to be able to follow them !<br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence._