Statistics

822

m

819

m

35

max°

Difficulty

FATMAP difficulty grade

Difficult

Description

##access From the Val d'Hérens By car, by Forclaz (1727 m), to Remointse de Bréona (2435 m).

but, the road is forbidden to cars from La Forclaz (not asafaltada, many pebbles, and passes very badly; 40 minutes by car from La Forclaz to Remointse de Bréona). From the Anniviers valley (Moiry) By car, through Vissoie, Grimentz then Moiry Dam up to parking level 2349 m at the S end of Lake Moiry. ##Access From Val d'Hérens From the Remointse of Bréona, reach the pass of the Couronne at first by a path, then by grassy slopes and finally by an easy runner of stones.

careful, the terrain is very unstable (T5). From the Anniviers valley (Moiry) The pass can also be reached from the Anniviers valley: - for example, with a night at the Moiry shelter.

in that case go down to the glacier (200 m below) by a path under the refuge (pull down on the right), cross the glacier towards 2650 m (do not go down further, cracks) and find in front (pull to the right) a "path" that climbs up to the hill without difficulty. -or directly from the car park at the S end of Lake Moiry.

From the car park, take the passable track that crosses the river under the lake 2349 m (direction Collado de Tsaté), follow it on 2 curves, then take a good path on the edge of the moraine (left bank of the glacier, direction S).

when you lose half of herbaceous and stony heads, turn right and follow the painful milestones.

flanking towards a second morrenica crest (SW-NE) that goes down from the buttresses of the Moiry point and that we reach by a path at the level of a visible milestone.

then go up on the edge to about 2700 m to the height 2806.

Oblique to the right (W) and arrive at the collada gorge by tarteras and fridges, then the collado by a path in a vertical grassy slope. ##Climbing From the Col de la Couronne, climb a score of meters something to the right of the ridge in a grassy terrain until rocks close the pass.

To go up a wide chimney on 5 m, then when it is made vertical, to go out in the plate/dihedral lying on the left (1 spit + ring) to arrive at the edge then a wide terrace by footpaths (1 chemical + ring).

The rocks are then vertical and smooth and are drawn on the right (slope E).

Go up then a footpath on 30 m then a small wall on the left (3 m, IV).

the edge widens then and we easily reach by a footpath the summit of the Clocher de la Couronne (first summit, detached from the main summit). From the Clocher, go down slope W to the marked gap between the clocher and the main summit (70 m, easy dexterity or rappellation), but following a general direction towards the leader (do not go back down!).

It is possible to escape in the Anniviers slope gap.

with 4 rappels, to get something expensive NW for the first 2 rappels, then near the edge and even something expensive E for the last 2 rappels.

with a rope of 50 m (45 m goes well): 4 rappels with new unique points (chemical + ring), with 60 m we draw to one and with 70 m, two. the gendarme that is in the breach is raffled by the right (E), following some ten of meters a small path that returns beyond in the edge.

To go up some metre slope W, then to take a small corridor plates or to arrive at the edge of the edge, after the second gendarme.

The next tower goes up Anniviers slope 15 m further, by straightened rocks but with dams.

the edge is then easier to follow up to the foot of the summit (2 more gendarmes). Since then, 2 alternatives : to lower something to the left in the ground, to pass the rocky waist in its weak point (explosive pass, 4a, ring above, short and little exposed, to cross to the left in plates (1 spit) until to be able to go up again towards the summit by plates more straightened but easy.

Pull still to the left at the end, we arrive just at the N of the summit that we easily climb (1 ring in half) by a dihedral lying of 10 m. but to climb directly the somital ridge by its SE edge (in the continuity of the edge of the ridge), thus taking advantage of a beautiful climb on a very good rock (35 m, III+ aerial, meeting with 1 spit + rock bridge) : at the foot of the somital ridge, to reach the edge of the ridge on the right by a short ascending cornice then to climb on 5 m the slope E to reach the foot of the same SE edge of the ridge.

to climb 3 m in the edge then to go up again in light right ascent a beautiful cracked plate (still slope E).

to carry eventually some cracker if we want to protect the length.

From the meeting, reach the summit with 5 m in II. ##Descent From the summit, descend 15 m slope N (easy dexterity, but the abseil is equipped near the ridge), then follow the ridge to the Coll de Bréona, avoiding the few more difficult gendarmes on the left (side Val d'Hérens, W) if we want.

be careful not to descend on the slope W when we draw because the rocks and runners are very unstable.

better the edge of the ridge, which is beautiful, is not as difficult as it seems (II + as much) and on good rock. From the Bréona pass, to return to the Val d'Hérens, reach Remointse along the marked path.

To go back to Moiry slope, follow the edge bonachona to the Collado de Tsaté since then an excellent path leads to the parking at the end of the lake.

the itinerary is marked PD, and can be walked up. <br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence._