Analysing terrain data
The exposure grade does not take into account objective hazards (stone fall, seracs, etc) but only the consequences of the skier falling.
Low Exposure: The route is well protected or easy enough that protection is not required.
Medium Exposure: The route features some exposed and/or difficult to protect sections.
High Exposure: Much of the route is difficult to protect and a fall could be disastrous at certain points.
Extreme Exposure: The majority of the route is "no fall" terrain.
##Up 4h From Almagellerhütte go up the path, well marked red and white, which leads to the depression S du Zwischbergenpass (3243 m) then to its depression N (3268 m) in 1h-1h30. From depression N, 2 alternatives : - integral edge : to raise the integrity of the ridge first arriving at the double ocher rocky tip through a path and the graille (the ridge is more like a slope over several hundred meters), then a tower that turns to the left (obvious).
The edge straightens and needs to climb.
stay on the edge of the edge where the rock is best.
Easy climbing, II to the easiest, III+ sometimes on 3 short walls but on the edge (can be circumvented).
at 3950 m the edge becomes snowy and leads to the antecima, then becomes sharp (sometimes cornices here) up to the summit. - by the nevero : cross in descent to the right to arrive at the nevero slope SE.
go up again it until the altitude of 3750 m where it ends under the last rocky relief.
Then turn left to reach the preceding route on the SE ridge. At the end of the season, when the snow is scarcer, the snowman is more epxuesto to falls of stones and the itinerary of the edge is safer. we can combine the 2 alternatives arriving at the lower edge than 3700 m, above all taking it towards 3550 m (after the "rocky section" of the nevero). ##Descent ##In summer From the summit, follow the beautiful edge WSW up to 3820 m, then turn towards the WNW some hundred meters then enter the same face NW by steps between seracs and cracks.
after the area of seracs, follow or towards Hohsaashütte, or very to the left (care to the cracks) above the ski slopes. then a very nice path leads to Saas Grund or Saas Almagell through Almagellertal. From Hohsaas, we can also cable down to Saas Grund. ##With skis to descend skiing, follow first the ridge, it is necessary to put the skis to 3700 m where 2 alternatives: Follow the normal route of ascent, exposed to seracs and cracks or go down slopes more to the W. go down a little to the left under point 3700 then cross almost the whole face to the left.
A large crack very clogged and some hole calls for care.
then go down on slopes interspersed by some rocky bar.
Upon reaching the ski slope (~2500m), there are 250 m of crossing left to reach the refuge. we can circumvent the climb of 250 m to the shelter by going down the normal way of the Weissmies that crosses cracks the itineario is not so evident especially with fog. <br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence._