Description

## Approach #### From the Glacier Blanc refuge From[waypoints/104143|White Glacier Refuge], take the access road to[[roads/104115|Ecrins Refuge]].

Then 2 possibilities : - At the beginning of the season, set foot on the White Glacier and follow the glacier combe on the left bank of the glacier to the plateau (about 3000 m), then join the "end of season" trail on the moraine (white spots). - At the end of the season, follow the path traced on the moraine and marked with white dots.

It starts about 50 m (in distance) before the path reaches the glacier (cairn): it goes up a stone corridor over a height difference of about sixty meters and then crosses the rocks bordering it on the right bank before crossing horizontally. At a bivouac site, located almost directly above the Col du Glacier Blanc (at this point the[roads/104115|refuge des Écrins] is clearly visible), reach the base of the ridge by stones and snow, bypassing a small rocky bar on the left instead. #### From the refuge of the Scriptures Go more or less on your side towards the E to aim at the base of the S ridge. ## Track (S-ridge) [img=143530 right]Pic du Glacier Blanc, S ridge[/img] Attack slope E, 10 m to the right of the base of the ridge, with a slightly cracked dihedral (1 piton) and quickly exit to the left to join the wire at a 2^epinon (set of IV).

*In the absence of snow, a cairn and a wooden stick lying on a socket 1 meter high indicates the starting dihedral.

* Attack variants : - There is a dihedral on the W side, less steep at the beginning but with an IV+ exit (piton in an exposed crossing before a steep passage): attack not recommended. - By a dihedral chimney located on slope E, about 40 m to the right of the wire (IV+, chimney sweeping, relay equipped on a stuck block). Follow the ridge (IV then III) to a breach and go up hillside E by a system of more or less marked turns to avoid several gendarmes.

Join the wire and follow it as best you can (III) to a point where a short de-escalation leads to a return anchor.

Recall 20 m into the breach. *The escape is not/no longer possible on the W side from this breach (reminder not found). Go up a slab at an oblique angle to the right (III) and follow the edge of the next gendarme's edge to reach a new abseiling anchor.

15 m recall in the following breach. Climb obliquely on the left a system of cracks (III).

By a system of ramps and turns on the NW side, reach the summit.

*You can also climb the edge line or look for some nice rocky passages by paying SE (III). ## Descent #### To the Glacier Blanc refuge Easily through the E ridge (cairns) then snow and stones to reach the path leading back to the[waypoints/104143|White Glacier Refuge]. #### To the refuge of the Scriptures !!! July 2017: a landslide occurred in July on the W ridge which descends towards the Brèche Cordier.

Option not recommended, __ to be confirmed. To head towards the[roads/104115|Ecrins Refuge], from the summit, follow the NW ridge towards the Breche Cordier.

A 40 m abseil (or 2 abseils of 24 m then 16 m, equipped on pads) is located, opposite SW, 5 m under the edge line (very tapered at this point), upstream of the Breche Cordier.

It allows you to get a foothold on the snow slope to the S.

From there, 25min on the side to reach the refuge. <br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence._