Description

[img=1029149 inline ]Lagginhorn's S-edged and down the normal way[/img] ## Access * From Bergrestaurant Hohsaas (3140 m), follow the marked path that climbs towards the E along Geissrücken.

towards 3200 m the path stops; pulling the easiest in the tarteras (footprints, milestones), avoid the upper part of Geissrücken on the right (slope S).

reach the glacier around 3300 m and passing through a little marked hill, reach Hohlaubgletscher.

By an ascending traverse towards the NE, reach the Lagginjoch (3499 m, last meters in unstable rock).

be careful, the Hohlaubgletscher loses its snow, the route changes every year! *Env.

1 h 30.* * From Weissmieshütte (2726 m), follow the path that leads to Hohsaas to about 3000 m.

From then on upwards in direction E in the meadows (tracks) until we reach Holaubgletscher, which we go up to the easiest (cracks) to Lagginjoch (3499 m, last meters in unstable rock).

*2 h 30.* ## Rise From Lagginjoch, follow the edge left when more on the edge (and as we move away, the rocks become much more unstable).

many traces of crampons in the rock. Towards 3700 m we arrive at a vertical high ledge of about 40 meters.

Two alternatives : * go up straight on 2 m, then rather to the right (E) in a plate (a piton), an extraplomado step at the end of the plate (IV, aerial) then to the left to arrive at the edge of the edge (III).

See photo with layout. * Or a not so interesting alternative: exit on the left (W) and cross over 20 m slope W, then reach the edge of the ridge after the collapse (III). img=1029151 inline]the high vertical protrusion of about 40 meters with plate and extra lead pitch[/img] Then follow the ridge with some step E slope, pass the point of union with the WSW nerves and reach the summit of the gendarme 3906 m.

The rest of the gendarme's descent is very aerial but with good prey (tapes on the edge of the edge facilitate protection). Follow the edge through point 3971 m.

The (easy) crossing of the series of small flames that follow punctuated by a dexterity in plate (in zigzag) that lead to a wide and horizontal stretch of the ridge (easy walk, but careful to the cornices). When the ridge goes up, we reach the foot of a gendarme.

climb to its summit.

then, two alternatives : *destreparlo NE side (III, vertcal but with good dams) to a good cornice.

Since then a dexterity and then a step in travesia to the right of a big block (III, fixed rope) take again to the edge adlre edge to the level of a small breach. * at the top of the gendarme, a line with spit and fast mallon allow a rappel up to the breach. Go up the next ledge, then follow the edge of the ridge to the summit (4010 m).

* 4 h from Lagginjoch.* ## Descent By [[routes/53794|vía normal]].

arriving at 3200 m in the Lagginhorngletscher, a large milestone (P3123) climbs the road (descent + cornice with cables) that allow to arrive directly the Hohlaubgletsche and thus Hohsaas. [img=1029150 inline] The cornices and cables that allow to reach directly the Hohlaubgletsche and thus Hohsaas [/img] <br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence._