Description

## Access ### From Albert 1^er arrive at the pass "Supérieur du Tour", then through the gap in V of beginning 150 m going up again to the N. ### From Trient's Cabana From the Cabana de Trient, cross the Trient plateau and, before reaching the "Col Supérieur du tour", turn NW in the direction of the V breccia. [img=225283 right]Needle Purtscheller, slope Trient[/img] [img=365898 left]Needle Purtscheller, S-edged classic[/img] [p] ## Itinerary L#1 | 4c/5a | From the gap in V, climb the cracked wall of the first gendarme, about 20 meters high.

after 8 m, cut to the left to avoid the gendarme in the slope W passing through a cleft.

then return to the slope E by a chimney corridor that leads to the gap between the first and second gendarme.

then climb the block embedded between the 2 gendarmes (step left on Dülfer or right) and climb the edge of the ridge to some meter. L#~ *alternative 1 :* to raise in 2 lengths the gendarme following all straight instead of leaving to the left to contour by the W (pythons).

to go down in the breach by a short equipped rapel.

much more handsome.

(= 1^re length of the "integral edge"). L#~ *alternative 2 :* climb on top of a cracked wall on top of the V gap and exit right bank (2 pythons, 1 spit) 5b to mount the meeting on the E slope pillar (meeting with chain with 3 spits). L#~ *alternative 3 :* from the V-brecord, catch the breach crack over 10 m 4c to protect.

Do not follow the fissure that follows and it becomes more difficult (alternative 2) but at the height of the first piton, make a step horizontally to the right to pass the edge 5a (good hand prey in a small horizontal fissure); follow the horizontal to the right 4c following 2 pythons, then climb the straight wall up 4c 10 m until R1 with chain.

Excellent rock, very nice, easier than the other alternatives, second half in the sun. L#2 | 4c | 45 m | (for alternatives 2 and 3, cross horizontally Trient slope by a short plate (IV+) and then in ascendancy to the right to reach the gap with embedded block).

follow something to the right of the edge, and after a short horizontal and delicate crossing, pass an extra lead (very short dihedral).

Meeting in a few blocks on a terrace just above. L#3 | | Contour for the left slope W, the summit of the second gendarme to arrive at the following breach.

To go down slope Trient 5 m (dexterity 4) to reach a wide cornice that we follow on 20 m and to mount the meeting at the foot of a beautiful chimney. L#4 | 4c/5a | 45 m | Go up that chimney with big yellow leaves first to the outside (protection with tape), then in ramonage - 2 blocks embedded to overcome - finally in the edge of the edge to the right of the chimney (4c/5a of pioneers, physical on the two 1^os sections). L#5 | 5a | At the top of the chimney, pass behind a tip, cross 10 m horizontally to reach a last breach, then climb a chimney over 20 m of unsafe rock to the top (at the tip we can climb straight over a system of fissures then leaves to reach the head of the last gendarme that we contour W side and dexterity to reach the last breach; 5a, delicate, good rock, a piton). ## Descent with 3 N-side rappels (equipped with 2 spits) with the possibility of intermediate rappels if we only have a 50 m rope: R#1 | 25 m | From the summit, direction N, reach a terrace at the end of the rope if we have 50 m ; we can take rope hoops 8 m under the summit, in the chimney (easy descent). R#2 | 35 m | Leads to a narrow terrace on top of the snow (with 50 m we reach the snow) R#3 | 50 m | To reach the snow and pass the rimaya The rappels take you close to the inito of the normal route of the Tour, in the Collado Purtscheller inside or after the rimaya. ***alternative : ** Do not take the rappel from the summit but dexterity on 20 m NE direction to reach a rappel line at the foot of a small point (rappel with rotten tapes that are seen from the summit, modern rappel that is seen on arrival).

this line of rappel NE slope leads to snow in 3 rappels of 30 m.*. ## Éscape a line of E slope rappels that we take just below the dexterity of L3 or the terrace of R3 (2 rappels to the glacier).<br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence._