FATMAP difficulty grade
## Approach # 1h30-2h From the Albert 1<sup>er</sup> refuge, follow the route leading to the Col du Tour.
Same thing from the Trient hut, it is often more advantageous to make a small detour by the upper pass of the Tour.
Then, just under the pass, cross the Tour glacier, on a hillside, towards Aiguille Forbes, passing near the rock kidney 3238 m. img=185399 right]Chardonnet, main routes on the NW side[/img] ## Route # 4-6h #### Reaching the edge Go up towards the Aiguille Forbes via an exposed NW corridor on the right (route n°1 of the diagram, some cracks, beware of the seracs on the left bank of the corridor).
We are on a flat area at the foot of the Bosse: a steep ice cap.
Climb this one, rather by a small snowy ridge on the left bank and join the E ridge of Chardonnet around 3700 m. #### The ridge We attack the ridge between a sharp gendarme and a large, elongated gendarme. The route then follows more or less the line of the ridge.
Most of the difficulties are bypassed on the N side (the S side is quite divided, in some places).
The most difficult climbing steps (max.
III) are equipped with pitons/straps. [img=14353535 right]Forbes Ridge[/img] ## Descent # 2-3h From the top, descend a thin ridge that goes towards the W.
Go down a few meters to get a foothold on a rocky saddle.
To the right, opens a beautiful snow corridor that you descend while remaining on the right bank (45° max, do not enter the large corridor that follows the left bank: it is steep and overlooks the Argentière slope).
Go down obliquely to the right by snow slopes to return towards the Tour basin, on a rocky/snowy saddle. There are two possibilities: 1.
Follow the rocky saddle towards the Adams Reilly Point and stay a little to the right.
At the bottom of the saddle a small passage a little steeper between the rocks leads to the start of abseiling (20 m). The first abseil (25 m) is on the right bank of a deep corridor (many cords and fast link).
The second on the left bank at the end of the lane (descend the second abseiling slightly to the right).
This second reminder is optional (easy de-escalation). We enter a snow slope that leads to a snowy saddle between the Chardonnet and the Adams Reilly needle.
Then follow the glacier from the shoulder (initially by its left bank) 2.
From the rocky saddle, turn right on a snow/rock slope. At the bottom of the slope a cairn (cairn) horizontally brings back to the left to a small suspended neve.
Cross this névé by pulling slightly to the left to find a first abseil (two pitons, straps).
In 1 abseiling of 50 m (the start is steep), one enters a steep corridor.
Another 50 m abseil (rings on the right bank) connects to a large block/pillar on the right bank or leads to a steep snow slope well below the snow saddle between the Chardonnet and the Adams Reilly needle.
Go down the slope along the rocks on the right bank (rimaye to be crossed on the far right, spoilers - strap in place - to pull a rappel if necessary). After the rimaye the two descent routes meet.
Go down towards the Tour glacier (beware, many large crevasses!).
Depending on the state of the Tour glacier, cross it directly towards the Albert 1<sup>er</sup> refuge or reach the foot of the Col du Passon, to cross it further downstream, where there are fewer cracks.<br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence._