Statistics

639

m

640

m

27

max°

Difficulty

FATMAP difficulty grade

Difficult

Description

##Access # 1 h From Andermatt (Uri) or from the bottom of the valley of Conches (Valais), reach the Furka pass. A few hundred meters from the hill, uran slope is the "Refugio Furka".

park here.

with an hour's walk, we reach the Sidelenhütte, by a footpath flanking.

A more direct and faster road also starts at 2280 m, slope Uri. [img=359311 right]journey between the beginning and the Tortue[/img] ##Access # 20-30 min From Sidelenhütte, take the "Kamel", a characteristic granite peak near Untere Bielenlücke (path).

cross to the right of a milestone to reach the foot of the road that we know by its characteristic steps, at the foot of a large pillar (another milestone). ##Itinerary # 3 h Go up on those steps (1 piton then 1 spit, IV, thus easier) and, just under an evident gap (reunion), cross to the left (then on the N flank of the ridge) a few meters under the ridge in a system of fissures/cornisas (some piton, III+). then follow the edge of the edge up to a more vertical protrusion/gendarme that we go up (IV).

Just below the top of the gendarme is the "crux": a vertical plate 3-4 m high furrowed by a widened fissure : Le ""mur des lamentations"".

2 help points allow to try an athletic recovery in the somital landing (IV+/V-A0).

In free: 8+ UIAA........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ we can avoid this short step on the left (plate, 2 spits, IV) _ From the top of the gendarme, easily go down the other side. we contour the "tortue": A plate laid horizontally, in equilibrium, in a fine gendarme. some step of III takes to the summit of another gendarme of the high one of which the following gendarme is seen, big and sharp, we contour by the right (flank E). after going up again in a chimney (aerial and delicate exit, IV, 2 spits and a piton near less bad), we arrive at a breach, that allows to escape slope W. The rest is easier: the summit of the next gendarme is reached by a length of III+, following some python N slope of the ridge.

Just below the top of the gendarme, pass slope E and cross under the ridge.

By a series of large blocks, to go towards the summit.

one reaches by an "explosive step" something cabron but well protected. ##Descent to arrive, by steps (milestones, 1 step with chain), l'Untere Bielenlücke, the return to the Sidelenhütte is done easily by a stone quarry and/or refrigerators until the middle of July in general.<br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence._