0 - 1
FATMAP difficulty grade
[img=951164 right][/img] ##Ascent 1<sup>er</sup>day Climb to the Studlhütte (2802 m) from the Kals valley (snow-cleared terminus at the Lucknerhaus at 1920 m, accommodation possible).
Road access by Innsbrück - Kitzbüel - Felbertauern - Matrei - Kals tunnel, or by the S via Bolzano - Bruneck - Lienz.
Obvious ascent (PD/S3, + 900 m), generally very well marked, but highly exposed to bottom flows between 2200 m and 2400 m (ascend early or then straight after 17h, everything comes back into the shade at that time, this is the advice of the guard in spring...
and the kitchen remains open until 20h30 ! ##Ascent 2<sup>e</sup>day From the refuge, cross horizontally on the right and then climb up towards the summit, you reach the Ködnitkees glacier, which you climb up to 3250 m before pulling straight to the right to reach the S ridge from the Adlersruhe around 3320 m.
Take this ski edge up on the bag (crampons), a few cables in delicate places, and you reach the Erzherzog Johannhütte refuge, the highest in the country at 3450 m.
Raise the skis and climb the E side of the Grossglockner as high as possible, usually best around 3650 m.
A steep corridor gives access to the snowy E ridge (called the Glocknerleitl ridge), generally well marked but quite exposed (iron sheets for belaying).
We pass at the top of the Kleinglockner, descend into a breach with a cable, then mixed summit ridge with metal pins and piles for belaying (II passages).
The final part by foot is only 150 m long but is rather aerial and excludes any slip-ups (PD/PD+ mountaineering level). ##Descending Ditto up to the outskirts of the Adlersruhe, about 100 m before the refuge there is a passage in the rocks on the right allowing you to ski down the upper part of the glacier (a small 40° at the top) to reach the ascent path without going back through the edge.
It is also possible to climb up there but the stiffness and frozen snow in the morning also forces you to use crampons: the hook on the edge is therefore no longer and allows you to make a nice loop through the spectacular Johannhütte refuge.<br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence._