Complex long glacial ascent with optional peak of Bellavista


6 - 7









FATMAP difficulty grade



From the Boval Hut, cross the moraine, reversing yesterdays approach and descend down onto the Morteratsch glacier.

Skin up, easily to start with, trending L across the glacier as you ascend.

The easiest angled slope is towards a large cliff, above which lies the Fortezza ridge, the normal way up Piz Bernina in the summer.

Our winter ski route remains independent and below this, on the glacier.

From about 2850m, under the obvious cliff, to about 3300m, you are trending up and R, before it steepens up to about 35 degrees, to put you on the shoulder above the Fortezza.

You are now on an easier angled glacial shelf at about 3700m, and above you lies the optional summit of Bellavista.

As the name implies it is worth the diversion if you have the energy, for the already good panorama doubles from the summit as you can see everything to the S as well.

Bellavista (strictly the E peak, at 3888m) is a fairly straightforward out and back trip above you.

You then continue W, fairly flat on a hanging serac, which isn’t obvious from above, but be aware of it.

Once beyond the serac you descend down L, heading for easier ground, which in turn leads up to the Marco e Rosa Hut at 3597m.

Very fit parties may also take in the Piz Argient or even miss out both those peaks and include Piz Bernina at the end of the day.