The aesthetic and regular profile of the Kuffner spur at the Palü Orientale can be seen clearly from the devilish, to the left of the imposing and majestic northern slope. It's a classic, and of the three spurs it's the most affordable to violate the north face. The rock is always good and the progression is never too difficult and always predictable. The nailing, apart from the more demanding section, is scarce or absent but it is always possible to protect oneself well by exploiting cracks and spikes. The final stretch of the ridge is very regular, but can be of live ice in late season.

Statistics

Analysing terrain data

1,096

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1,099

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36

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Description

[img=239479 big right/] ### Chamanna Diavolezza The starting point for all ascents to the northern slope of the Pizzi Palü is the Chamanna Diavolezza at 2975 m altitude.

In a beautiful position it can be easily reached by cable car or by following the path that runs along the ski slopes (about 950 m of altitude difference, about 2 hours). ### Approaching takes place for the most part along the normal route to the Piz Palü Orientale. From Chamanna Diavolezza (2975 m) you can take a short descent to the pass where the summer ski lifts arrive.

Continue following the marked traces, with red markings, leading just below the Sass Queder, then with some ups and downs along the entire eastern side of Piz Trovat (there are stretches of snow more or less extensive depending on the season) thus reaching the Fuorcla Trovat (3019 m), for debris or snow you go down on Vadret Pers.

Go along the Vadret Pers until the evening that stretches between the rocky outcropping spur at an altitude of 3146 m and the Piz Cambrena and here deviate towards the W slightly uphill passing just above the outcropping and then reaching the glacial basin that gives access to the eastern spur from E. ### Street Once the terminal crevasse has been overcome, climb up a series of easy rocky plates (some spits are present), quickly reaching the edge of the edge.

We proceed with fun climbing (III/III+, ch.) on good rock up to a clear ledge of yellowish rocks and unstable that develops on the side E.

Follow the ledge for about thirty meters (or stay on the edge of the ridge) and then climb back up to the ridge, where with a couple of pitches you reach the base of a large gendarme.

You pass the tower first along a plate (IV+ and a step of V/V+, hard, 3 ch.) and then turning left into a nice dihedral of rock worked at the end of which for an easy plate you come to a comfortable resting point (1 ch.). From here the ridge becomes easier but in case of snow this section becomes very delicate and with very few insurance possibilities.

Then follows the beautiful snowy ridge (40°/45°) that with easy and elegant progression leads to the summit. ### Descent From the top of the Piz Palü Orientale follow the easy and always well-marked normal route that leads back to the Diavolezza (2 hours) along the Vadret Pers again.<br/><br/>This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence.<br/><br/>_This Adventure has been shared under the [Creative Commons Share Alike](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/) licence._