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[img=176683 right]Wellenkuppe - Ober Gabelhorn crossing[/img] [img=144231 right]Ober Gabelhorn by Wellenkuppe[/img] [img=307013 left]Ober Gabelhorn - NW side routes[/img] ## Ascent to Wellenkuppe (~3h) From the Rothornhütte, follow the Trift glacier on the left bank, making a large arc of a circle to avoid the cracked area.

Go up on the shoulder of the glacier that descends from the E ridge of the Wellenkuppe (1h20).

We then leave the glacier to walk, more than climb, among the broken rocks of the ridge.

Follow the tracks of paths and cairns that go to the left.

A variant then consists in climbing up the 2<sup>e</sup>corridor (about 30 m of vertical drop from the pass, rope fixed at the foot) through a chimney (III, protectable by straps and friends) to a small breach on the edge.

The next step is obvious, follow the tracks, cairns and stakes.

The few turns can be bypassed to the left.

Quite quickly we reach the slabs in 3-, then on a rocky bump. A small slope of 30 m at 35 degrees and we are at the top of the Wellenkuppe (3903 m - 1h30).

Superb panorama on the Matterhorn, and of course on the rest of the race: the Ober Gabelhorn. ## From Wellenkuppe to Ober Gabelhorn (~2h30) Easy descent on a snow slope (beware of a small crevasse that blocks the road about 30 m below the summit), to the pass, at the foot of the large gendarme.

There are a few rope rings around the blocks, then a large fixed rope (new in 2018) to access the top of the gendarme (3870 m).

It is possible to bypass the top by taking a right turn 10 m below the top followed by the fixed rope.

From the top, we barely descend into a gorge on the N side before crossing horizontally over the large blocks of the ridge.

A step of de-escalation (seems difficult seen from above, but with good holds and an old piton at the bottom) allows to reach the snowy ridge. A short snow crossing, followed by a steeper snow slope connecting to the rocky ridge.

Watch out for the ledges.

This good rocky ridge leads in a few lengths to the top of the Ober Gabelhorn (4063 m).

A length in 4 in Dülfer. ## Descent By the same route, 25 m abseiling possible (many cords and quick links in place). Cross the summit and begin the descent of the NE ridge with several abseils to reach the picketed snowy ridge.

Follow the snowy ridge to the large Gendarme to find the fixed rope. Rappel down to the snowy ridge that leads up to the top of the Wellenkuppe (3903 m). From Wellenkuppe, descend the snow bump to reach the ENE ridge.

3 abseils of 25 m allow you to lower the slabs.

Then we come across traces of paths with carins and iron rods.

We then walk between the blocks to reach a last abseil (on a metal rod) before reaching the shoulder of the Triftgletscher.

This abseil (25 m) is pulled in the dihedral to the left in the direction of descent.

At the bottom is a fixed rope that allows you to de-escalate in foul terrain. Then join the Rothornhütte by describing a large arc of circle on the left bank of the glacier, to avoid most of the cracked areas.

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